Unknown FP 1
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Alex on unknown 5.10d.
The Fazio-Rhicard/ Agee book names this route "*???????5.10b". Please correct me if you know the actual name of the route. Find the route with the bottom directions. Climb the sharp low angle rock to the actual climb. Follow the overhung pockets to the chains over the lip.
Follow the trails to the Frog prince formation and at the easternmost side, after the largly overhung section, you will find what looks like the frog prince's mouth. There are three routes in here. This route is the only one on the left side.
8 bolts to anchors.
By Josh Tokioka
Jan 8, 2015
This route was so flaky and so much chauce. Literally every move you make, something breaks off. Even the pockets that are there are filled with grit and pebbles, making them not so bomber. I definitely would not climb this again
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 9, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hey Josh, the route you climbed was probably The Worrier or the Warrior not this one. This one, Unknown FP 1, has been around for over a decade and is pretty clean. The Worrier or the Warrior is less then a year old and, as you found, is still cleaning up a lot.