Unknown (formerly entered as Problem Child)  5.9 PG13

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  George Bracksieck & Teri Ebel Season:  when the ice is too thick to avoid Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Dec 9, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Playing on huecos galore.

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws Details www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>;&g>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This is a fun, little pitch that caught the eye of a pair of dufi who thought that A Very Ament's Slab might be climbable without crampons in December after a snow storm. It turns out, we were just following in the footsteps of a pair of better climbers. This lies on the huecoed south face of the lower cliff seen on p. 200 below route 21 along Approach III in the Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. There’s probably plenty of room for FAs on this cliff band for average blokes or lasses.

It may have been climbed previously...it was. However, no mention of this exists in the Flatirons guidebook or this database...until now.

Stop reading if you don't like beta. Start up an obvious line of little resistance up slightly-overhanging, jugs, huecos, and a tufa of sorts. You can use an orange & yellow Alien before you commit. Then a #3 Camalot fits decently in a hueco for the committing overhang. After 15 feet (the best part), it eases to less than vertical. You can fit a #3.5 Camalot in a hueco above the overhang. Move left to a slot for a #0.75 Camalot. From here, you basically go up easy, neat huecos all the way to the slab edge top of the lower cliff band. You can move left to a natural thread. 130’.

To descend, move left then downclimb a couple overlaps to a rappel tree with 2 slings & a fat mallon ring. The rappel tree is visible in the photo on p. 196 Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. Rappel 80’ to the ground over 2 overhangs. Alternatively, you could go to the top of the gully which puts you near the base of Saturday’s Folly, me thinks.

Location 

On the south side of the Third Flatiron, along the Approach III, this ascends an obvious, short overhang to a very huecoed face. This may climb what is called the Outer Wedge in Rossiter's guidebook.

Protection 

Rack a couple medium wires, #9 & 11 hexes, yellow Alien to #3.5 Camalot.