Unknown Flake  5.10 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Unknown Season:  Faces East Submitted By:  Tony B on Apr 21, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The start

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Description 

A slightly harder short route- starting off with jamming and ending in an open-book layback. The crux is probably coming out of the wide-finger layback and getting into the crack above on poor feet. Good rock, good moves, but too short to be satisfying.

Location 

perhaps 50 meters right of the Sabbatical corner, and 15 meters right of the 'Unknown D.F. Route' there is a very obtuse corner formed by a flake against the wall. This is wide down low with a small crack in it, and narrow up top. A set of black slings hangs in a pin/bolt anchor above and is easily seem from the right of the route, but not from below.

Protection 

Good gear, but hard to place up high due to position and angle- the flake takes gear from .5" to 2", mostly in the finger size up high, and ascends to a sling and ring anchor on a bolt and pin. The PG-13 rating here reflects a subjective danger to inexperienced leaders who might have difficulty sizing blind pro in an open book layback or placing properly and deeply enough to be safe in a thin flake.

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Kateri laying it back!