A slightly harder short route- starting off with jamming and ending in an open-book layback. The crux is probably coming out of the wide-finger layback and getting into the crack above on poor feet. Good rock, good moves, but too short to be satisfying.
perhaps 50 meters right of the Sabbatical corner, and 15 meters right of the 'Unknown D.F. Route' there is a very obtuse corner formed by a flake against the wall. This is wide down low with a small crack in it, and narrow up top. A set of black slings hangs in a pin/bolt anchor above and is easily seem from the right of the route, but not from below.
Good gear, but hard to place up high due to position and angle- the flake takes gear from .5" to 2", mostly in the finger size up high, and ascends to a sling and ring anchor on a bolt and pin. The PG-13 rating here reflects a subjective danger to inexperienced leaders who might have difficulty sizing blind pro in an open book layback or placing properly and deeply enough to be safe in a thin flake.
|Comments on Unknown Flake
|By Chris Plesko|
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 8, 2010
Anchor was double drilled angles with webbing and biners. We added some new purple webbing on 11/7/2010.
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
plaque calls it 'back to school'. short but pretty good with tricky obtuse laybacking. luckily your feet are on smooth rock with a little bit of lichen to help. anchor is 2 pins sticking pretty far out, might need to be driven in a bit deeper.
|By Mike Munger|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 21, 2011
Climb it straight on for a little more of a challenge (11a?) and good visualization of your gear placements. The climber who lead this pitch just before me sewed it up but all of his placements were tipped out and he would have decked if he had fallen. Caveat Emptor