Unknown Finger Crack  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  ???? Submitted By:  Matt Toensing on Nov 11, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Terry sticking it.

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Description 

I have no idea what this climb is called, but if you know the name of it, let me know. Work your way up the dihedral with some feet to a stance below a steep section of crack looming above you. Fire out some burly moves in the overhanging tips crack to a jug. There are new shiny bolts up top.

Note that the bottom of this route is a little loose. I have climbed this route a few times and one time a ledge for a foothold near the bottom broke. Another time we trundled a huge block off of the top of the route that was marked with chalk Xs. Anyways it would probably be a good idea for the belayer to have a helmet. This route is short but very powerful. Definitely a finger-size dependent crack.

Location 

This route is the route to the left of four wheel drive by about 150 feet. It is a very obvious route as you are walking along, because the bolts are easy to see.

Protection 

BD #0.75s for the bottom, maybe three of them and possibly one #1. For the upper section I used a #0.2 or small purple Mastercam-sized piece and then three #0.3 BD-sized cams.

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Lower on the route.