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Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
Left of 5.10 Flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown far left - II 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: I-Forget-Who follows the unknown crack with a roof...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route is not described in the Bloom book. But then again, I can't find the 3 mystery climbs that are, so maybe he just has this one wrong?
Climb up the corner with the hands-to-fist crack, and the hand-to-fist crack just right of it (#3-3.5 camalot) Reach the roof, protect it (1-1.5" gear) and pull in over it (crux, 5.10) and climb the corner system above to a solid anchor.
The anchor is now an equalized #10 hex (textbook placement I just set in) and a drilled pin on the face. A perfectly good carabiner is up top and should be switched for a rapid link by someone (I was out again).


This route is at the very left end of the 'good rock' at Blue Gramma and just before turning the corner to the NW face. It climbs a wide hands and fist crack up just inches right or a right facing corner and then up and right through a roof to an anchor well above.
Approach via the trail at the base of the rock, perhaps 150 meters left of Dawn of an Age and 100 meters left of a distinct 15-meter-tall free standing pillar.
This might be more quickly approached by walking up the road from the parking to the low point in the cliff and then going up to said low point, where this route lies.


A standard light rack with 2 each 3-3.5" pieces

Photos of Unknown far left - II Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 'I-Forgot-Who' finds that getting established afte...
'I-Forgot-Who' finds that getting established afte...

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