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Blue Gramma Cliff
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Blue Gramma 
Dawn of an Age 
Desert Siren (Tower) 
Event Horizon, The 
Formerly Aided 
Hayley's Heyday 
left of 5.10 flake 
Moon Goddess Revenge 
Orion's Bow 
Petrelli Motors 
Price of Evil, The 
Unknown far left 
Unknown far left - II 
Unnamed (right side) 
Unnamed 10+ 
Unnamed 11 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake 
Unnamed 9+ 
Unnamed II 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown far left - II 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 3, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: I-Forget-Who follows the unknown crack with a roof...

Description 

This route is not described in the Bloom book. But then again, I can't find the 3 mystery climbs that are, so maybe he just has this one wrong?
Climb up the corner with the hands-to-fist crack, and the hand-to-fist crack just right of it (#3-3.5 camalot) Reach the roof, protect it (1-1.5" gear) and pull in over it (crux, 5.10) and climb the corner system above to a solid anchor.
The anchor is now an equalized #10 hex (textbook placement I just set in) and a drilled pin on the face. A perfectly good carabiner is up top and should be switched for a rapid link by someone (I was out again).


Location 

This route is at the very left end of the 'good rock' at Blue Gramma and just before turning the corner to the NW face. It climbs a wide hands and fist crack up just inches right or a right facing corner and then up and right through a roof to an anchor well above.
Approach via the trail at the base of the rock, perhaps 150 meters left of Dawn of an Age and 100 meters left of a distinct 15-meter-tall free standing pillar.
This might be more quickly approached by walking up the road from the parking to the low point in the cliff and then going up to said low point, where this route lies.


Protection 

A standard light rack with 2 each 3-3.5" pieces



Photos of Unknown far left - II Slideshow Add Photo
'I-Forgot-Who' finds that getting established after the roof does not necessarily bring and end to the awkwardness. Left Unknown at Blue Gramma.  Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
'I-Forgot-Who' finds that getting established afte...
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