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Once Were Warriors S 
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Unknown Face Route S 

Unknown Face Route 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 32'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: ???-(3/98)
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

A short but steeper face route between The Fire Swamp and Princess Buttercup. Follow the blunt, curving arete up a line of bolts to shared anchors with "The Fire Swamp". Seemingly more difficult than the rating suggests.


Location 

Listed as route #6 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.


Protection 

3 bolts to shared anchors with "The Fire Swamp".



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By Devin Shunk
Sep 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pretty nice route. For an interesting variation, stay to the left of the arete on the way up. Slightly overhung and more fun and a bit more challenging than the direct route, IMHO.

By Tom Johnson
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Jul 23, 2008

I personally find this to be the hardest route (besides the .12) at Gallows edge. The sequence is not entirely obvious, and the steepness may get you a bit pumped if you're out of shape. Still, a pretty decent route.

By Devin Shunk
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just a heads up. The second bolt on this route has some of the rock missing from underneath it, exposing several threads. Not too tough of a climb to just clip it and go, but if you want some pro, a few different tri-cams will do nicely in this area.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 19, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Who brings tricams to Gallows Edge??? Besides you of course :)