Scramble up to a ledge and optionally clip the first bolt of "Impending Doom". Follow the crack and either step left to hit the anchors of "Impending Doom" or venture further on easier ground. A small tree makes for a natural anchor should the route be followed to completion.
This route lists as a 5.3 in the pocket guide but I would grade it a 5.6. Also be aware that the rappel off the tree may require two ropes -- it would certainly be close. I rapped off the tree to the anchors of "Impending Doom".
Dihedral between "Impending Doom" and "Schizophrenic Blvd" on the creek right. Route #26 in Marty Karabin's "Road Area" (September 2008) pocket guide.
Large to small pro. Optional bolt and anchors.
|By Joshua Jones|
From: San Tan Valley, az
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This climb is totally sandbagged. I would say 5.6 is still too low. I found the climb enjoyable on lead but there were moves that were more difficult than anything on First Born. I would say 5.6/7 trad lead could be sketchy. If you are solid at 5.8 go for it. It is fun, easy to protect and eats gear. You can avoid the double rope rappel by traversing left to the anchors for Neptune.