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This is not a new rote, but it is not published in Rossiter's Book. It is plugged here in hopes of getting more info about the route and its history for the next guidebook. It is a pretty good route, and probably about 5.9.
The route, Chains Of Love (12b), starts in from a dihedral down and left of the bolted overhang. The dihedral may be superseded in fame by the later bolted overhang, but it is not displaced. The dihedral goes to the top of the wall and can be climbed to the top. It is a good climb on its own merit and deserves more attention that it gets. Although I did it a few years ago and recall it being quite tall, I do not recall how tall.
To descend, my notes say: "Up and Over the top, up ridge to North, rap from large tree."
Climb the entire dihedral up and left of Chains Of Love to the top of the wall.
A standard rack to 3.5". There are some considerable runouts.
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