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 ADVANCED
Fiddlehead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Shadow Sickness T 
Castles Made of Sand S 
Chains of Love T,S 
East Face/Fiddle Head T 
Fertile Crescent. T 
Irish Spring T,S 
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 
Men Only T 
Surfing Samarsa T 
Unknown Dihedral T 

Unknown Dihedral 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2006

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  • Description 

    This is not a new rote, but it is not published in Rossiter's Book. It is plugged here in hopes of getting more info about the route and its history for the next guidebook. It is a pretty good route, and probably about 5.9.

    The route, Chains Of Love (12b), starts in from a dihedral down and left of the bolted overhang. The dihedral may be superseded in fame by the later bolted overhang, but it is not displaced. The dihedral goes to the top of the wall and can be climbed to the top. It is a good climb on its own merit and deserves more attention that it gets. Although I did it a few years ago and recall it being quite tall, I do not recall how tall.

    To descend, my notes say: "Up and Over the top, up ridge to North, rap from large tree."


    Location 

    Climb the entire dihedral up and left of Chains Of Love to the top of the wall.


    Protection 

    A standard rack to 3.5". There are some considerable runouts.



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