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Sabbatical Wall
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Unknown D.F. Route 
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Unknown D.F. Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: D.F. (?)
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 21, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

A short route with a short crux. This climb ascends a few moves up to a shelf, then jams loose hands to step up onto a square flat stance near the crack, the route's crux. Distinct rest stances are key opportunities for protection before the crux and other opportunities are from pretty good stances.
An excellent beginner lead. A neophyte leader would never be far from the ground, protection, or a watchful belayer.


Location 

About 20 meters right of Sabbatical there is an obvious crack and corner system with a ~3" crack and a right-facing corner crux. A plaque at the base reads: "D.F. 5.10" but the route is easier than 5.10.


Protection 

A few 2.3-3.5" cams are the meat of it. More may be desired, but since the whole route can be seen from the ground, there is no problem determining what gear any individual might need.



Comments on Unknown D.F. Route Add Comment
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By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Apr 23, 2008

Agree with Tony - a good route for beginning Indian Creek leaders. Short, moderate, and easily protected.

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Aug 25, 2010

this route went up in the fall of 04 . my son wanted to help put up a short warm up. the name and grade were up in the air cause i am old and he is young. he was small at the time. and i am still fat and old. more like 5.9?

By slim
Administrator
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

a good candidate for a first desert lead as the climbing is very easy, there are good stances, it is short, and the rock is generally pretty good. good anchor at the top.