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 ADVANCED
Beastie Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Danger Mouse S 
Inner Sanctum S 
Jaws S 
Lichen to Liken T 
Pony Express T,S 
Rusty-P, The T,TR 
Thunder Toad S 
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 
Unnamed T,S 
Unnamed Fissure T 
Unnatural Attraction S 

Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 19, 2009

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Find the pin in the crack left of the black-hangered Unnamed (5.11) sport climb. Climb up to this by liebacking up the well-protected crack, or use face holds to either side. Clip the pin, then choose your adventure. I angled left, slung marginal chickenheads, then traversed left at least 20' with no opportunities for any good gear (which was spicy for both the leader & follower; possibly could sling more knobs?), and finished up a hands/OW crack to an anchor built off of a big block at the top. Straight up from the piton might go, but looked steep, thin, and poorly protected.

This climb is mentioned in the guidebook as one of 3 mixed routes in the Alley, but is not described or shown in a photo or topo, so you're on your own as far as the routefinding.

I climbed Serpent Face the same day, which was a breeze, by comparison.

If someone has more info on this route (name/FA/intended direction), it would be interesting to learn the story of this old, bold, forgotten route.

Location 

Just left of the black-bolted Unnamed 5.11 sport climb on the south side of the Alley, look for a knifeblade piton in a shallow right-facing crack.

There is another mixed climb with 2 old 1/4"(?) bolts left of this line. No details at this time.

Descend by scrambling down (some 4th class) to the anchor for Pony Express, and rap from there back into the Alley with 1 rope.

Protection 

Nuts & cams to 3".
Bring thin slings to tie off chickenheads.


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