Linkup: Unknown crack to bolted face to As the Wind Cries
|232 page views|
Pitch 1 - a bit out of focus, sorry!
A nice direct way to get up Chey Desa Tsay. As with many linkups there are multiple FA parties. After finding a mixture of new and old bolts I did some research.
Pitch 1 (115', 5.11) - A stellar pitch. According to the definitive Stronghold historian, the FA was done by a trad hardman more than 20 years ago. Beautiful finger/hand/cupped hand crack to chickenheads. Now sporting two modern bolts. I am still trying to determine if the FA was done with two bolts that have subsequently been replaced.
Pitch 2 (150' 5.10) - Traverse/climb 20' left to where you can establish yourself on a bolted face climb with very nice rock. There is an intermediate anchor which can be used for a belay or descent. This pitch was established by Scott Ayers, probably in the early 2000s.
Transfer the belay across to the big ledge under a wide crack.
Two options are possible to finish:
Pitch 3a (5.11, 150') - Start at the left side of the ledge at a bolted anchor and follow bolts to the top. This pitch was established by Scott Ayers around 2004.
Pitch 3b (5.10/11, 150') - This is the mystery pitch. Originally established by Steve Grossman and Paul Davidson as the final pitch of As the Wind Cries, this pitch was a testament to Steve's amazing routefinding and ground-up leading ability. It was established with 1 or 2 3/8" split shafts. Grossman's FA traversed right before the last 20 feet. Jim Waugh repeated the route and did a boltless direct finish straight up two or three weeks later. This amazingly bold, exposed climb now sports a dozen bolts that were added without consent of the FA. These bolts should be removed. (For those wishing to experience this amazing pitch safely, simply climb the bolted 5.11 to its left and TR it.)
See beta photo.
Stoppers, singles to .75", doubles of #1, #2, #3, one #4 for pitch 1. The remaining pitches are mostly bolted.
|Photos of Linkup: Unknown crack to bolted face to As the Wind Cries Slideshow
Looking up at the last pitch(es)