Linkup: Unknown crack to bolted face to As the Wind Cries  5.11

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Multiple parties Submitted By:  Geir on Feb 19, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Pitch 1 - a bit out of focus, sorry!

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>> Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows: All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27. All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows: Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th. Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A nice direct way to get up Chey Desa Tsay. As with many linkups there are multiple FA parties. After finding a mixture of new and old bolts I did some research.

Pitch 1 (115', 5.11) - A stellar pitch. According to the definitive Stronghold historian, the FA was done by a trad hardman more than 20 years ago. Beautiful finger/hand/cupped hand crack to chickenheads. Now sporting two modern bolts. I am still trying to determine if the FA was done with two bolts that have subsequently been replaced.

Pitch 2 (150' 5.10) - Traverse/climb 20' left to where you can establish yourself on a bolted face climb with very nice rock. There is an intermediate anchor which can be used for a belay or descent. This pitch was established by Scott Ayers, probably in the early 2000s.

Transfer the belay across to the big ledge under a wide crack.

Two options are possible to finish:

Pitch 3a (5.11, 150') - Start at the left side of the ledge at a bolted anchor and follow bolts to the top. This pitch was established by Scott Ayers around 2004.

Pitch 3b (5.10/11, 150') - This is the mystery pitch. Originally established by Steve Grossman and Paul Davidson as the final pitch of As the Wind Cries, this pitch was a testament to Steve's amazing routefinding and ground-up leading ability. It was established with 1 or 2 3/8" split shafts. Grossman's FA traversed right before the last 20 feet. Jim Waugh repeated the route and did a boltless direct finish straight up two or three weeks later. This amazingly bold, exposed climb now sports a dozen bolts that were added without consent of the FA. These bolts should be removed. (For those wishing to experience this amazing pitch safely, simply climb the bolted 5.11 to its left and TR it.)

Location 

See beta photo.

Protection 

Stoppers, singles to .75", doubles of #1, #2, #3, one #4 for pitch 1. The remaining pitches are mostly bolted.

Photos of Linkup: Unknown crack to bolted face to As the Wind Cries Slideshow

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Looking up at the last pitch(es)