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Virus, The 
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Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) 

5.10a

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
FA: ?
Submitted By: JP Griffith on Jan 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Happy to have made it past the crux.

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Description 

I don't know the name of this route, but it definitely has been done before seeing as there are anchors for it at the top and it is a pretty obvious line. If you know name or FA, let me know.

The first 10 feet are fairly overhanging and definitely the crux of the route. You can use a #0.5 Camalot to protect the overhanging moves. Once past the overhang, it gets substantially easier. Cruise up the right-angling, shallow crack to the anchors.


Location 

This is just right The Virus and left of New River Gorge Homesick Blues.


Protection 

Nuts and cams up to a #3 Camalot. There are two anchors at the top.



Photos of Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) Slideshow Add Photo
Analyzing the crux and pro.

Analyzing the crux and pro.

Going in left side in makes it tough to get your shoulders rotated to take advantage of those holds out to the left, so right side in like depicted works better.  Expect a grunt. <br /> <br />Note, you can get your helmet stuck in the offwidth start section if you try to turn your head to reach the left holds.  Thus, I actually don't recommend a helmet on the start. I wound up taking mine off.  Though, it might have been nice for the upper bit due to rock quality.

Going in left side in makes it tough to get your s...

The crack (in the center).

BETA PHOTO: The crack (in the center).


Comments on Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) Add Comment
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 20, 2012
rating: 5.10

While the climbing is much easier above, the rock quality is more suspect. Be careful and protect the upper part adequately, since some of the holds up there, particularly to the left of the crack, seemed questionable. Also, a helmet gets in the way for the bottom offwidth, but in retrospect it might be useful to get tossed up to you once you get to the ledge.

Addendum: on the second run, we found you can go either right side in or left side in.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 6, 2013
rating: 5.10c

The anchors on this were likely installed for the 11c/d to the right, but they make for a good anchor for this climb.