Too Young to Fly
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BETA PHOTO: The obvious crack is the climb.
On the left side of the south face of Taj Mahal is a striking, right-curving flake/corner. This is an excellent climb involving finger locks through locker hand jams. The climbing is awkwardly strenuous at times, utilizing tenuous, right foot smears on the face. Short sections of cranking are rewarded with decent stances.
We replaced the bolt hangers at the top of the route with some Fixe rings to remove the tat and bad bronze colored SMC hangers. A 70M rope is just right.
It is on the South Face, in the middle of a steep, prominent slab.
Full rack from small/ medium nuts to #4 Friend. The #4 is helpful near the start of the route to protect the pull over a bulge to get established in the corner.
Low on the climb with some sun glare.
By Gary walker
Mar 10, 2014
Harvey Carter put up the first ascent on this amazing crack. I guess Scott Stull and I were the second to do it. We found one of his pins at the base that has HC stamped on it. Scott Stull and I put up the three pitch bolted line to the left of Harvey's crack called Trials and Tribulations, 11d? Ground up. Twin ropes are helpful on first pitch. It meanders left then back right to a two bolt anchor. Pitch one and two are 11d. The third to top is about 5.8. Both routes make it a fun day at Taj Mahal.
By Jay Eggleston
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is called "Too Young to Fly" in the Jason Haas guidebook. The name on here should be changed. Haas says to bring 2 #1 and #2 Camalots, but we used three #2s and two #3s. He says to rack up to a #3 but does not mention 2. The crack takes nuts in many places as well.