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Leominster State Forest
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L to R R to L Alpha
Edges and Ledges T 
Gulla Gulla Gully T 
Gulla Gulla Gully variation T 
Unknown T 
Unknown Climb Roof Variation T 

Unknown Climb Roof Variation 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: spring, summer and fall
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013

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Description 

Start as for the 5.8+ face climb. Once you reach the ledge, go up a ramp and pull a large, pumpy roof to gain the top of the cliff. Using a small tree trunk at the top of the roof would likely downgrade the climb to 5.8, but without it, it goes at a stiff 5.9 for the move.

Location 

This is on the right side of main face, to the left of the gully climb.

Protection 

The pro placed before the roof is questionable, making the roof all the more scary. If you can hang on, the small tree above the roof accepts a sling to protect the difficult top-out.


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By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 3, 2013

A fall while pulling the roof would not be good. You would certainly hit the ledge before anything could catch you.