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Unknown Climb in Colorado National Monument
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By jordanlister
From Hoback, WY
Dec 17, 2012
I came across this line while hiking today. It's located on the buttress between Gold Star and Monument Canyons. I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about this and/or what it's rated. It looks like a two pitch route to the top. The first (supposed) pitch definitely could use some cleaning, but looks like it'd go at about 5.8/9ish with some wide hands at a less than vertical angle and the second pitch looks like it'd be thin fingers to tips with a seamy tips crux roof.

It doesn't look like this has been climbed much do to its plentiful chock stones and dirty, sandy nature, but could potentially be a super fun line.

Also, while bolting is forbidden in the area, does anyone know the rules about bringing up a rock bar to clean/trundle loose rock that could be danger to belayers and seconds? On a related note, if anyone has climbed this, are there features to sling some cord/webbing on for repels?

It doesn't seem to have a walk off option. I'm not sure what could be done to descend this if it's both sans rap bolts and natural features. Leave your gear in place and French-free down-climb while cleaning it?

The buttress.
The buttress.


Proposed route.
Proposed route.




The dirty first pitch.
The dirty first pitch.

FLAG
By Paul S
From Fruita, CO
Dec 17, 2012
My first FA
I'm pretty sure that's Ride the Lightning. It's 5.11 C1 and there are already anchors to get down.

As far as bringing a bar to help trundle loose blocks, I'm pretty sure the park wouldn't be too happy with that. With obscure routes like this in the monument it's best to just tread lightly around blocks that don't come out with a push/pull.

If you're wanting to get on it and need a partner let me know! I've been wanting to do it for awhile now.

FLAG
By Paul S
From Fruita, CO
Dec 17, 2012
My first FA
Actually, I take that back! Looking at it closer, I'm putting my money on it being an unclimbed crack on Irishman Temple, but on the unclimbed tower (Irishman Temple is a tower split in two). If it's the crack I'm thinking of, there's a blank section below that little roof that would require bolting are nailing to get through, which is a no go in the Monument. There is a way to climb up to the right of it though (so skipping the p1 in your pic), then traverse out left to meet that roof and continue to the top. I've had my eye on it for a while, but I think it might be a little sketchy to make it to that main vertical crack.

To get down, it might be possible to make the leap across to the other summit which has anchors in place to get down. It'd be an adventure!

FLAG
By jordanlister
From Hoback, WY
Dec 18, 2012
Yeah, I looked at the various climbs listed here on MP, and based on the third beta photo for Ride the Lightning, I assumed this was different. I couldn't make out what the section below the small roof looked like, and definitely didn't want to onsight solo up in hiking boots to check it out (I'm kind of a wimp like that).

It's definitely on Irishman's Temple. There's a small walk through tunnel (what I assume to be the actual "temple" in the formation's name) immediately to the east of this (or left in the photos)which leads to the other side of the tower where there's a few wide, chossy looking climbs as well, and then a few more cracks around the side to the west (right). I think this is around the corner from The Cleansing - I'm not sure seeing as how I haven't climbed that route. I hope that helps clarifying this location. (Also, apologies - I neglected to check in the "other areas" part of the Monument section here last night, which could have helped in the description of this location.)

Jumping might be a bit of a psychological feat.

FLAG
By Paul S
From Fruita, CO
Dec 18, 2012
My first FA
After looking at some of my photos, it is the crack I was thinking of on Irishman Temple. I'm pretty sure that's the only crack that goes all the way to the top of that tower. It looks good ignoring the climbing getting to it!

If looking west into the recess created from the two towers, The Cleansing is on the left and climbs a crack from a giant pillar that forms the left side of the left tower. Veuve Noire climbs the opposite side of that pillar and both routes go to the top of the left tower.

The jump across would be much more doable from the Cleansing summit to the unclimbed one, as it's a bit lower. It would probably be a little bit bigger than the Mace jump in Sedona if you are familiar with that one. Going from the unclimbed one to the Cleansing summit, you'd have to jump to a sloping ledge and climb a tad to the top. I'm not sure if it's doable...

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