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The Trad Lands
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Unknown Chimney to Crack 
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Unknown Chimney to Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: a lizard
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: The crux of the route is the slot on the right.
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Description 

This is a little line whose upper half makes you think about climbing it. It is not listed in either Mark Rolofson's excellent guidebook or Jason Haas' colorful guidebook. It certainly has been climbed, maybe it dates back to the Burk brothers. It's just another line to do if you've done laps and laps on Liar, Liar.

You can start the same as for Liar, Liar or ascend the easy chimney just to the left. About 20 feet up, you move right on interesting knobs just right of the chimney. Gain that crack squiggling up the small face. Top out at Liar, Liar's 2 bolt anchor.


Location 

This is between Startled and Liar, Liar on the right side of Trad Lands.


Protection 

A rack with some large cams for the bottom and smaller gear for the top or you can TR off Liar, Liar's anchor.



Photos of Unknown Chimney to Crack Slideshow Add Photo
George Newman sending on the upper crack.
George Newman sending on the upper crack.
The anchor and the layback crack (actually above Liar, Liar).
BETA PHOTO: The anchor and the layback crack (actually above L...
Red arrows show the crux of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Red arrows show the crux of the route.
Comments on Unknown Chimney to Crack Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jan 18, 2013

The crux on this is in the chimney about halfway up. The rest of the moves seemed about 5.6. This is not a great route but is worth doing if you have done everything else in the area.