|The Trad Lands
Unknown Chimney to Crack
BETA PHOTO: The crux of the route is the slot on the right.
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This is a little line whose upper half makes you think about climbing it. It is not listed in either Mark Rolofson's excellent guidebook or Jason Haas' colorful guidebook. It certainly has been climbed, maybe it dates back to the Burk brothers. It's just another line to do if you've done laps and laps on Liar, Liar.
You can start the same as for Liar, Liar or ascend the easy chimney just to the left. About 20 feet up, you move right on interesting knobs just right of the chimney. Gain that crack squiggling up the small face. Top out at Liar, Liar's 2 bolt anchor.
This is between Startled and Liar, Liar on the right side of Trad Lands.
A rack with some large cams for the bottom and smaller gear for the top or you can TR off Liar, Liar's anchor.
George Newman sending on the upper crack.
BETA PHOTO: The anchor and the layback crack (actually above L...
BETA PHOTO: Red arrows show the crux of the route.
|Comments on Unknown Chimney to Crack
|By Jay Eggleston|
Jan 18, 2013
The crux on this is in the chimney about halfway up. The rest of the moves seemed about 5.6. This is not a great route but is worth doing if you have done everything else in the area.