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Unknown Buttress

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Unknown Buttress  


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Location: 51.4692, -2.6352 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Mar 20, 2013
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Currently closed due to rockfall MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area is the section of cliff below the ramp. It is bounded on the left by the dark, normally vegetated, left-facing corner of "Unknown Gully", and is almost 50m high at this point. To the right, is the awesome arete of "New Horizons", and the area continues onto the front face of the ramp.

The Unknown Buttress is host to one of the gorge's most popular E1s: "M1", as well as the classic test piece "Ladder of Desire" (E3 5c).

Getting There 

From the Sea Walls car park walk left and, instead of up the ramp, continue walking around the base. The Unknown Buttress is now on your right

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Unknown Buttress

New Horizons 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Unknown Buttress
An awesome route taking the prominent arete on Unknown Buttress as directly as possible. The first pitch is bold at the bottom, but well protected at the overhang, while the second has good gear at the bottom and less for the easy climbing at the top.P1 23m 5.10Start just to the left of the arete, up a slab with horizontal breaks and poor gear. Traverse right where possible, somewhere about mid way up the slab to a ledge just to the right of the arete. Psyche yourself up for some thin moves back...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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