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The New River Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Unknown at New River 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ????????
Page Views: 722
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 9, 2002

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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on a separate outcropping upstream from the New River Wall. Follow the approach for Highlander and New River Wall for about 100 yards. As the trail hits a small flat area and heads up left, look down and right to find an outcropping with 2 bolts at the lip and a third as backup about 10 feet from the lip.

Figure out how to get down. I set up a rappel at the anchors with the single bolt as backup and rappelled about 50 feet down and right to the lower anchors (on a sloping shelf just off the water). Watch the ends of your rope or coil them and feed as you rappel to keep your rope dry! Another possibility would be to rappel off a separate line, setup to stay out of the river.

Follow 3 bolts up and left over relatively easy terrain. Crank up and over a small roof (crux - 1 more bolt) and head for the anchors. This is a fun route with great position right off the river. It's just too short.

Protection 

Quickdraws for 4 bolts and 2-bolt top and bottom anchors.


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By GeoffElson
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

In the event that you find yourself needing to climb this good but very unremarkable short route, I would recommend top belaying and lower down the climber. Leading this route is completely useless and unnecessary.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree with Geoff. Nice little climb, with quality if not quantity. Easiest to belay from top and keep your rope dry.