All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > E Yosemite Fall… > A. Swan Slab

Unknown Arete

Name: Unknown Arete
Rating: 1.9

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13

Routes in A. Swan Slab

L › R R › L A › Z

	5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Bobby's Lobby T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
	Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Into the Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0
	JL: Jesus Loves or Just Lettuce T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Patio Cracks - Center T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Patio Cracks - Left 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Patio Cracks - Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pin Scar Seams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Seamilicious TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Swan Slab Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Unnamed Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	West Slabs TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Yose University T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, TR, 200 ft (61 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,074 total · 15/month
Shared By:	TacoDelRio on Apr 22, 2013
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

8 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

This fun line climbs up the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. When I climbed it, I started up Swan Slab Chimney (5.5) to Swan Slab Squeeze (5.7). At the top of Squeeze, you can get on the arete. The first move is a couple of somewhat tricky face moves. After that, the rest is pretty easy (5.7ish) and gets much easier as the route goes up.

Please note that the PG13 rating is for leading on the old bolts.

Location

As noted in the description, this route takes the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. Walk off is the same as Bay Tree, or rapp down to the ledge atop Chimney/Oak Tree Flake/Grant's. Easy downclimb down the chimney.

The Bay Tree Crack walk off involves a 5.5 downclimb which is tricky at first.

Protection

Some wide cams (squeeze chimney) for Swan Slab Squeeze, then a handful of draws for the arete. Honestly better to do this as a TR solo with a 70m. The bolts up top are ancient 1/4 rusted dudes, and special wide pro for the Squeeze would rather be overkill.

Gear anchor up top, supplemented by one old bolt/hanger combo atop Bay Tree Crack.

EDIT: old bolts have been replaced, and a new two bolt anchor is at the top.