All Locations > California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Billy Goat Rock

Unknown aka Cock rock

Name: Unknown aka Cock rock
Rating: 1.7

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Billy Goat Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Billy Ray TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bridwell Bolt Route S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cummed On S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Permanent Erection S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown aka Cock rock T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,462 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Brian Snider on Sep 10, 2010
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

This is a fun route for beginners and novices as it has many variations at the start. Near vertical with large holds and good feet. Start on the right side and climb the chimney or the left side for easier climbing. The easiest route up is mostly 5.5 or so with a 5.9 move near the top. This climb is in the shade all day.

Location

This route is found on the left side of the face on billy goat rock. Start below the large cave and follow the path of least resistance to the ramp at the finish. Walk off the back side or rap from anchors found on the right side of the face.

Protection

You can lead this with a couple of slings and a small piece for the crux. Theres a large boulder to sling at the top or belay off of the Bridwell bolt route anchors. You may want a directional for top roping.