Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates"
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | Lee Brinckerhoff '09 equipped by Bryan Pletta |
Page Views: | 1,748 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Nov 6, 2006 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Start climbing up a large flake hand crack or layback to the first bolt, about 15 feet. Make nice improbable moves past two more bolts to the crux. Here there are two bolts about two feet apart. Make the hard crux moves to another bolt to a nice rest. From here pass about 6 more bolts on easier ground to the anchors.
Location
On the opposite side of the arete of Rickety Rock. On the left are Ruffles Have Ridges and Crack Whores.
Grade
It's rated 10c in Beverly's Jemez Rock guide, but is probably at least 2 number grades harder. First clue was it's slightly overhanging nature with few holds. Second clue was 10c chalked on the wall with a "NO" symbol around it. So could be +/- a few letter grades but I found it way harder than the other 12b's in the area.
5 Comments