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666 S 
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 
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Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 
Venarete S 

Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff '09 equipped by Bryan Pletta
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Nov 6, 2006

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Post crux glory hanging on the arete photo by Car...

Description 

Start climbing up a large flake hand crack or layback to the first bolt, about 15 feet. Make nice improbable moves past two more bolts to the crux. Here there are two bolts about two feet apart. Make the hard crux moves to another bolt to a nice rest. From here pass about 6 more bolts on easier ground to the anchors.

Location 

On the opposite side of the arete of Rickety Rock. On the left are Ruffles Have Ridges and Crack Whores.

Protection 

11 bolts to a chain anchor.

Grade 

It's rated 10c in Beverly's Jemez Rock guide, but is probably at least 2 number grades harder. First clue was it's slightly overhanging nature with few holds. Second clue was 10c chalked on the wall with a "NO" symbol around it. So could be +/- a few letter grades but I found it way harder than the other 12b's in the area.


Photos of Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" Slideshow Add Photo
Moving off of the terrible 1 1/2 finger pocket  ph...
Moving off of the terrible 1 1/2 finger pocket ph...
Josh Smith attempting Box of Chocolates
Josh Smith attempting Box of Chocolates
Resting up before heading into the crux headwall  ...
Resting up before heading into the crux headwall ...
Josh Smith lowering off Box of Chocolates on a bea...
Josh Smith lowering off Box of Chocolates on a bea...
Finishing off the crux section of the climb. A fal...
Finishing off the crux section of the climb. A fal...

Comments on Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" Add Comment
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 7, 2007

Rumor has it that this is a Bryan Pletta route and is an open project still awaiting the FFA. The naming in the Jemez rock book was an error. Grade is probably closer to 13a.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

FA: Lee Brinckerhoff '09 equipped by Bryan Pletta
Grade: 5.13- good starting point, let others get it more accurate
Name: still thinking. . .

Description: 5.11 climbing past 4 bolts with some nice back and forth movement on the arete leads to the break and a good rest. Make a long clip of the lower of 2 closely spaced bolts from an undercling then up right to a sidepull, get your feet up into the break. Left up to a gaston to reset the feet then again to the pocket at the bottom of the short seam (if you could grab it as a sidepull/undercling it would be great), the pocket is pretty good for one finger and sloping for another so it is kind of like a mono. Step up right onto a small point and fire out right to the arete, after catching it bump up to a decent hold. Past your feet to nothing good in particular and reach up with the left to a 3 finger pocket on the left side of a broken area. Wrap your right heal around the arete and bump up to the jug on the arete. You will skip one of the 2 closely spaced bolts, I only clipped the lower one on the send. From here mantle onto the arete, then more 5.11 climbing on the arete and laybacking a crack out left on the face gains lower angle climbing for the last 15-20 feet to the anchor which is up and left.

Protection: 11 bolts and a chain anchor, though when trying to send you will clip 10. An attentive belay, I did not take it, but a fall from the end of the crux seems as though it would land you on the arete. I don't think moving the bolt would solve this, though if it could be moved far enough right and still be clipable the fall might be better.

Notes:
-As of 4-19-09 there are no quicklinks or bail biners on the route.
-This is a fun route but it would be nice if it was a bit more continuous, sending really revolves around a 4 move sequence, from the time you move to the pocket till you get the huge jug on the arete. The crux is about V7.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 20, 2009

Nice job Lee!
By Jfoley
Jun 29, 2010

Nice job Bryan.