|Consensus:||YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]|
|FA:||Lee Brinckerhoff '09 equipped by Bryan Pletta|
|Submitted By:||DisturbingThePeace on Nov 6, 2006|
|Comments on Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates"||Add Comment|
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 7, 2007
|Rumor has it that this is a Bryan Pletta route and is an open project still awaiting the FFA. The naming in the Jemez rock book was an error. Grade is probably closer to 13a.|
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff '09 equipped by Bryan Pletta
Grade: 5.13- good starting point, let others get it more accurate
Name: still thinking. . .
Description: 5.11 climbing past 4 bolts with some nice back and forth movement on the arete leads to the break and a good rest. Make a long clip of the lower of 2 closely spaced bolts from an undercling then up right to a sidepull, get your feet up into the break. Left up to a gaston to reset the feet then again to the pocket at the bottom of the short seam (if you could grab it as a sidepull/undercling it would be great), the pocket is pretty good for one finger and sloping for another so it is kind of like a mono. Step up right onto a small point and fire out right to the arete, after catching it bump up to a decent hold. Past your feet to nothing good in particular and reach up with the left to a 3 finger pocket on the left side of a broken area. Wrap your right heal around the arete and bump up to the jug on the arete. You will skip one of the 2 closely spaced bolts, I only clipped the lower one on the send. From here mantle onto the arete, then more 5.11 climbing on the arete and laybacking a crack out left on the face gains lower angle climbing for the last 15-20 feet to the anchor which is up and left.
Protection: 11 bolts and a chain anchor, though when trying to send you will clip 10. An attentive belay, I did not take it, but a fall from the end of the crux seems as though it would land you on the arete. I don't think moving the bolt would solve this, though if it could be moved far enough right and still be clipable the fall might be better.
-As of 4-19-09 there are no quicklinks or bail biners on the route.
-This is a fun route but it would be nice if it was a bit more continuous, sending really revolves around a 4 move sequence, from the time you move to the pocket till you get the huge jug on the arete. The crux is about V7.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 20, 2009
|Nice job Lee!|
Jun 29, 2010
|Nice job Bryan.|