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 ADVANCED
West Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 
Hwan Kap T,TR 
Left-facing Dihedral T 
Shaft, The S 
Tin Can Arete T,TR 
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 
Unknown 5 T,S 
Unknown 7+ T,S 
Unknown 9 T,S 
Unknown 9+ T,S 

Unknown 9 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013

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George pulls through the crux before the 1st bolt.

Description 

This is the 2nd route from the left of the obvious routes on the right side of West Slabs. It may be identified with a cruxy looking start below a bolt maybe 12 feet up.

Find some small, positive edges and hop aboard. Make a highstep and get situated to clip the bolt. A budding 5.9 leader may want a stick clip. Move up on easier terrain to the 2nd bolt. A fall on this section is unlikely but would likely hurt a lot. Make a weird move up and leftward to get the 3rd and 4th bolts. A optional cam could be placed before the 3rd bolt. Pull the tiny bulge and pick your sequence. You can join Unknown 7+ to the left or move up over angling ledges/cracks. Clip the 2 bolt intermediate anchor (not rappable), clip another 2 bolts, and gain a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with rappable hangers.

There is another 2 bolt anchor perhaps 70' above.

Location 

This is the 2nd route from the left of the obvious routes on the right side of West Slabs. It may be identified with a cruxy looking start below a bolt maybe 12 feet up. It too starts out of a raspberry patch. This year, the vegetation looks oddly unhealthy at the start.

Protection 

7 bolts, #0.75 Camalot, +/- orange Alien.


Photos of Unknown 9 Slideshow Add Photo
<a href='/v/unknown-9/108259811'>Unknown 9</a> in red and <a href='/v/unknown-2nd-9/108259818'>Unknown 2nd 9</a> in yellow.
Unknown 9 in red and Unknown 2nd 9 in yellow.

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