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 ADVANCED
Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Where Sun Don't Shine, The T,TR 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Respect T,S 
Unknown 10 aka Thunderhead S 
Unknown 10+ (beige hangers) aka Spooked aka Firestarter? S 
Unknown 10- aka Spooked S 
Unknown 11 aka Lightning Strike S 
Unknown 11- right variation aka Rain Delay S 
Unknown 5 Arete aka Nurse Jackie S 
Unknown 7 Left Start aka Californication S 
Unknown 7 Right Start aka Weeds S 
Unknown 8 Blunt Arete aka Reunion S 
Unknown 9 aka Side Dish T,S 
Unknown 9+ (black hangers) aka Fire and Rain T 
Unknown 9+ aka Hustle T,S 
Unknown 9- aka Loyalty S 
Unknown aka Rain Check S 
Unknown Center Variation aka Quick Silver S 
Unknown Ear Route aka Smallville S 
Unknown Far Right aka Dexter S 
Unknown Left Variation aka Summer Nights S 
Unknown Right Variation aka Erika S 
Unknown Slab to Arete S 
Unknown Variation Left aka Full Respect S 
Whodathunkit T,TR 

Unknown 9- aka Loyalty 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 1,721
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Good shot of the route.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag. This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.

Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake. Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top. Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip. Apparently, some folks stop after 7 bolts.

Caveat Emptor: one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and breaking an ankle on this route, so pay attention. Bring small cams if this is near your limit. Some now rate this 9+.

This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Now others have provided the name, Loyalty. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.


Location 

This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left on this little buttress.


Protection 

8-10 bolts and possibly gear.



Comments on Unknown 9- aka Loyalty Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear.

By JonnyGreenlee
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely.

By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2013

Gear 0.5"-1" will protect the middle section nicely.

By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

There are 8 bolts on this route, unless you clip some on adjacent routes. Minor runout after B4 has ledge-fall potential and can be protected with a small cam (e.g. 0.3 - 0.5 BD). More significant runout above B6 can be protected with micro cams on the left or medium cams under the overlap to the right (long draw). Or just climb through it and wonder where those other bolts went.