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 ADVANCED
West Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 
Hwan Kap T,TR 
Left-facing Dihedral T 
Shaft, The S 
Tin Can Arete T,TR 
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 
Unknown 5 T,S 
Unknown 7+ T,S 
Unknown 9 T,S 
Unknown 9+ T,S 

Unknown 7+ 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013

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George pulls the bulge.

Description 

This may be the leftmost of the obvious routes on the right side of West Slabs (there is a stray bolt to the left of the 3rd bolt). It begins above raspberry bushes.

P1. Start up blocky, slopey terrain to a bolt. Aim for another couple bolts above carefully pulling on a few fragile flakes. Pull up under a small bulge. Clip a couple bolts, and pull over. Angle right and up to an intermediate 2 bolt anchor (no rap rings & right one needs a wrench to tighten it). Continue up past 2 more bolts to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and rappable hangers, 85'.

P2. Climb moderate terrain with abundant horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor left of a tree, 5.5, 55'.

You can continue upward with another pitch, 5.9, gear, 140'. This seems so dissimilar to the lower pitches and had enough cleaning to do that it is likely a different route.

Location 

This may be the leftmost route of the right side of the crag. Its start appears blocky.

Protection 

6 bolts, orange Mastercam, #0.4, #0.75, & #1 Camalots will cover it.


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By Doug Redosh
Aug 9, 2014

Pitch 1 is real nice. Would continue to the 2nd of 3 sets of anchors. One cannot see the 3rd set from the second set.