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Unknown 5.9 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,752
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Alex learns to Jam at The Creek

Description 

Crack in corner starts as hands and quickly turns into big hands. Somewhat difficult moves where the corner opens up and you have to climb over a large wedged boulder in the crack. Felt hard for 5.9, but it's only 40 feet so....

Location 

First climb left of Wavy Gravy. Corner that opens at the top with a boulder wedged in the crack.

Protection 

Probably 2 each of gold and blue Camalots and maybe a smaller piece or two for the top.


Photos of Unknown 5.9 Slideshow Add Photo
so pumped at the pod on this one... look right to find gear and pull out of the hole
so pumped at the pod on this one... look right to ...
Unknown 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.9
Katy Fun-Maker guns for the chains on the Unnamed 5.9 just left of Wavy Gravy.
Katy Fun-Maker guns for the chains on the Unnamed ...
Ryan leading up Unnamed 5.9
Ryan leading up Unnamed 5.9

Comments on Unknown 5.9 Add Comment
Show which comments
By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Feb 7, 2009

Good two bolt anchor at the top. Also you can continue over to the anchor of the OW corner for a TR.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Felt very hard for a 5.9. Think more 5.10...short but it has some thin hands followed by wide hands. Not THAT much easier than wavy gravy for me.
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 16, 2010

Agree about feeling harder than a 5.9
By Andy Novak
From: Golden, Co
May 26, 2010

As of 5/10 there is a name plaque at the base of this climb that says "Dr. Awkward, 5.9". Seems about right.
By snicho
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2012

The gear includes a couple of #1 cams and a #2. #3 optional. Great lead if you have small hands!