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 ADVANCED
Amphitheater Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 Gauge Rain T,S 
Liken I T,S 
Unknown 5.9 crack T 

Unknown 5.9 crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: TBD on Aug 24, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.9 crack on left.

Description 

On the right side of the amphitheater there is a very inviting, broken face. Start in the obvious, splitter, hand crack that turns to the left about 20 feet up. Follow this continuous crack to its end, and then move up and right to a broken crack with a couple of pins.

There is currently 1 bolt (new) on this route. Not sure why.

There are anchors at the top of the cliff. A single rope rap to the Liken I anchors and one more rap gets you to the ground. Or walk off.


Location 

This is on the right side of the amphitheater, see the photo.


Protection 

Pro to 3 inches.



Comments on Unknown 5.9 crack Add Comment
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By Chuck Lynch
Aug 26, 2012

For me, the unknown 5.9 felt more like a stiff 5.10. The bottom was a little tricky (I may have bad crack technique). It was fun though and easy on the second half (5.8).

Pro up to 3 worked fine for me.

This place has a lot of untapped potential as well maybe not trad, but some sport routes could definitely go up here, possibly pretty hard, too.

By Dougald MacDonald
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent climbing marred by patches of junky rock and dripping bat poo.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a museum for old gear. There are at least 3 old pitons, 1 ancient bolt, 2 SMC bolts from the '80s, and funky bits of wire. Double #3 Friends or #2 Camalots and #9 & #10 hexes were useful.