Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), Grade II
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,297 total · 11/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 11, 2014
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


6 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Are there three parties already on Sunshine Ridge? Occasionally this is the case, have no fear. A second route exists. While it is shorter, and the rock quality suffers at the bottom, the upper pitches are actually almost has good as those on sunshine. This route likely has a longer history, it has (or had) several old military style ring pitons on it although they are slowly disappearing or have been replaced by bolts.

Access pitches: Anything around Mayday, Thrombosis gully climbs, Although you could also scramble up Thrombosis gully

Pitch 1: 5.6 climb rotten rock trending left, there was a fixed ring piton in this section. belay off the a large ledge, to the left of the second sawed off telephone pole located in a nice alcove (the first sawed off pole is just above the anchor on Mayday. This is about 50ft from Sunshine Ridge. This line starts another 50-100 ft to the left of this. Find a section that looks like the rock is good, and follow the highest rock quality. Keep your eyes on the look out for bolts. The next two pitches are at least as high quality as the pitches on sunshine ridge.

Pitch 2: 5.8+ Climb some rotten rock past one (blue) hanger 5/16 button head bolt, the rock quality improves here. follow the crack system to a small, and suspect tree with sun rotted webbing. Belay here, but probably not off the tree, there is a wide crack just below the next bulge that will take 3 or 4 inch pieces.

Pitch 3: 5.7+ climb upwards and trend right until you see a fixe hanger and bolt. Clip this and climb up and follow three or four more bolts through some moves above it. These bolts are all missing hangers and nuts, so bring some stoppers to sling them. Belay from the Anchor at the top of sunshine.

Laugh at the throngs of people stuck on Sunshine, and walk down following the trail to the left.

Location Suggest change

To the left of Sunshine Ridge Proper

Protection Suggest change

gear to 2"

Photos

loading