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Unknown (5.8?) 

Unknown (5.8?) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 712
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 18, 2010
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Description 

In between Makayla's Climb and Suds are two relatively new, well protected moderate routes. This is the left of the two.

The climb starts on juggy terrain which becomes distinctly thinner starting at the third bolt. Probably a touch soft for a Yosemite 5.8, and surprising well protected.

I'm unsure of the FA details and the actual rating of this climb (someone who sounded like they knew what they were doing told me 5.8) . Any information would be appreciated.


Location 

The first bolted route to the right of Makayla's Climb. Look for 4 bolts on a featured face.


Protection 

4 bolts to chains



Comments on Unknown (5.8?) Add Comment
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By Tyler Alves
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 21, 2011

If it is the same one im thinking of, it seemed much easier than 5.8. Or since there are different sized knobs everywhere, it can be as easy or hard as you want.

By Osprey
From: ...
Dec 21, 2011

Christopher Van Leuven's "Supertopo - Sport Climbs and Top Ropes" book from 2010 lists a 5.8 called More Mental than Mantel, aka Mantel Illness just right of Makayla's Climb and left of Suds. Clint's website lists this climb as having seven bolts with grey camo hangers. It also has a second pitch with 3 bolts and gear at 10c. FA Dan and Sue Mcdevitt 2000's. Do not know if this is the Unknown 5.8 or not. This info was retrieved from:

www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/YOS.HTM

By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 12, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

I agree with Mark on the placement of this line relative to Makayla's and Suds. The bottom "5.8" section is quite easy for Yosemite. You can rap from the second set of anchors above the 10c "second pitch" with a 70m - just barely, thanks to rope stretch (you can also rap twice with a 60m to the intermediate anchor). Be careful if you top rope the full length of the climb from the ground and be sure to tie in to both ends of the rope!

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

RE: .10c I thought that 2nd pitch felt hard!

There is an old line in the Reid guide that takes a line up Makayla's (or even the next line of bolts left, which is a bit easier) that also goes to the 2nd pitch via a 5.8 corner further left than the .10c variation. I haven't climbed the upper part of this but Reid calls it 5.8.

There is also a line a little to the right of Suds that is also really fun. Starts with bolts then goes into a nice lieback corner then ends with bolts on a corner/face. It shares the same anchor. The top felt harder than Suds. I got the following information from Clint Cummins' site:
"390. Kiddie Corner 5.9 *, 25' R of Suds, 10x, gear to 3", to anchor chains on right"