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Headbanger Wall
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Unknown 5.8 T 

Unknown 5.8 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 716
Submitted By: mschlocker on Nov 11, 2007

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Making the transition into the right crack on the ...
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Description 

Climb a crack in a corner that starts thin and shallow at the bottom but quickly opens up to large hands. There is also a thin and shallow crack on its right that can be used for upward progress. About 70' up switch to the right crack which will take you to a ledge with a rap anchor. The exit moves will keep you entertained all the way to the ledge.

A great moderate crack. Requires jamming and stemming skills. Protects well after the first 15' which is not the crux.


Location 

Not actually on the Headbanger Wall proper. If you are heading to the Headbanger Wall from the Patina Wall, head left around the Headbanger formation instead of into the wall. Not too far around you will see a crack in a corner which leads up to a ledge on its right about 80' up. The wall on this ledge has two bolts and an american death triangle to rap from. If you are a generous soul, bring some chain or quicklinks up for this rap anchor.


Protection 

Trad gear, very small to 3".



Comments on Unknown 5.8 Add Comment
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By tradryan
Jan 16, 2013

The route pictured here is Battleship Chains on the Treasure Chest aka Big Moon Rock. A second pitch goes at 5.9