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Routes in Black and Tan
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[Redacted] S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Block Party S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blockheads S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Criminal Mischief S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Da Riddler S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dickheads S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dissonance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dull Boy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dull Boy direct exit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gym climbers crack. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Learning Curve S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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No Random Guy Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Old World Lullaby S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pockets Full O' Chicken Wings S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poke in the Eye S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Resolve S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reward Schedule S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rhythm Stick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Slabstick S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slabstick to Unknown linkup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Talking Smack S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Tickman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | T. Goss, J. Howard |
| Page Views: | 1,585 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Kenny Clark on May 23, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This route starts off with some thin moves on the slab. After the first bolt of Redolence move to the right and follow the line of bolts that continue up and to the right. Holds are thin and require some thought up until the 4th bolt or so, after which the climb changes personality. More features are available in the little runnels that have formed. The difficulty eases, and the bolts get farther and farther apart up to the ring anchors.
When lowering off this route you will end up 30 feet or more to the right of your belayer. Have a second clean the climb. Don't try to clean this while lowering, or on rappel. You will get some nasty scratches on the sharp rock when you swing.
When lowering off this route you will end up 30 feet or more to the right of your belayer. Have a second clean the climb. Don't try to clean this while lowering, or on rappel. You will get some nasty scratches on the sharp rock when you swing.
Location
On the left side of the caves at Black and Tan. Shares the first bolt of Redolence then skirts off to the right.
Photos
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