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Unknown 5.11d 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,575
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Hoskins trying to move left, from the good ledge, ...

Description 

Crux is between the third and fourth bolt. Sequential and powerful climbing between the third and fourth bolt. And then its over. Really strange bolting locations. I did not find the arete on climbers right to be particularly useful.

Location 

This is on the left (westish) side of the lower ambush wall. Not worth doing on its own right. However, if you are in the area its worth doing real quick.

Protection 

4 quickdraws and two for the chains if someone wants to toprope the route.


Photos of Unknown 5.11d Slideshow Add Photo
The chains are visible at the top and the first bolt at the bottom.  I painted the fake looking branch so it wasn't bright wihte.
BETA PHOTO: The chains are visible at the top and the first bo...
Me using the finger lock to get up to the crimper ledge.  Ouch!
Me using the finger lock to get up to the crimper ...
Unknown's anchor
BETA PHOTO: Unknown's anchor

Comments on Unknown 5.11d Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 21, 2013
By tytonic
From: Salem, OR
May 31, 2008

It's basically a boulder problem with bolts. I was able to hang draws on bolts 2 and 3 easily from the side and my belayer stood near the first bolt.

DON'T grab the block left of the 4th bolt marked with an X. The X means scary loose block not bomber hold.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 27, 2008

Holy Crap. Just tried this tonight. Is this really only an 5.11d??? We preclipped bolts 2 and 3 because a fall would be scary before bolt 3. We stayed just left of the corner to the right with right hand on the big shelf and feet underneath on the ledge, but there was no way we could get up! We just hit "Right Pile" (5.11d) this morning and it was challenging but there were no moves that we had a hard time doing. I just can't believe this is the same rating! Were we doing it wrong? See the posted pics.
By Suzanna
Jun 30, 2008

One of the climbers yanked the loose rock off of this route Thursday night. Interesting that the rating is thought to be too low for this route (I couldn't say as I didn't try it). The other climbs in this area seem to be less difficult than their ratings.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 30, 2008

I agree with the other ratings. They seemed a bit easier than rated, although my wife had a harder time on the 5.8 than expected. As far as the 11d, we climbed an 11d at the speed trap this morning with no problems. So, maybe I'm not just crazy. If we get a few more 11d's this week I'll know that the rating is off... Do you know where the loose rock was pulled? Was it at bolt 4?
By JBONE
Jul 11, 2009

DUMB!
By lewisslc
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Sep 12, 2011

Sent this route this weekend (first time at this crag), and although the route is very bouldery and for sure, strenuous, i find it hard to believe the thing is an 11d. i would put it at the easier end of 11a or a hard 10c with a two move crux (i also clipped the first and second bolt before leading the rest). But it was fun for everyone...interesting little route.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A few powerful moves and the route is over. Reminds me of a high-ball boulder problem somewhere in the range of V2 or so.
By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 11, 2012

This was actually a really good climb. I think whoever bolted this route had intended for you to follow the arete up, as that is where the hard moves are located. If you don't follow the arete and start halfway up (starting in the crack to the left), then it's probably only an .11a. For the .11d (probably more like .12a) follow the arete.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

2 move wonder. Big throw to get to the 3rd bolt. Gain a few inches reset your feet, and another big throw to the left. Clip the 4th bolt. Then it's over.
By Chris Doobtrain
From: Sandy, Utah
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

This problem deserves two stars in my opinion. Its just hard, scary and if you dont have the length its dynamic. Super fun though, go for the redpoint after playing around with pre clips!