Unknown 5.11d 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Shaun Greene on Jul 13, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: The chains are visible at the top and the first bo...
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Description Crux is between the third and fourth bolt. Sequential and powerful climbing between the third and fourth bolt. And then its over. Really strange bolting locations. I did not find the arete on climbers right to be particularly useful.
Location This is on the left (westish) side of the lower ambush wall. Not worth doing on its own right. However, if you are in the area its worth doing real quick.
Protection 4 quickdraws and two for the chains if someone wants to toprope the route.
Me using the finger lock to get up to the crimper ...
| Hoskins trying to move left, from the good ledge, ...
| BETA PHOTO: Rope running through the chains, draws outline the...
| Lewis leading, one more bolt until the chains.
| BETA PHOTO: Unknown's anchor
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| Comments on Unknown 5.11d |
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By tytonic From: Salem, OR May 31, 2008
| It's basically a boulder problem with bolts. I was able to hang draws on bolts 2 and 3 easily from the side and my belayer stood near the first bolt. DON'T grab the block left of the 4th bolt marked with an X. The X means scary loose block not bomber hold. |
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Jun 27, 2008
| Holy Crap. Just tried this tonight. Is this really only an 5.11d??? We preclipped bolts 2 and 3 because a fall would be scary before bolt 3. We stayed just left of the corner to the right with right hand on the big shelf and feet underneath on the ledge, but there was no way we could get up! We just hit "Right Pile" (5.11d) this morning and it was challenging but there were no moves that we had a hard time doing. I just can't believe this is the same rating! Were we doing it wrong? See the posted pics. |
By Suzanna Jun 30, 2008
| One of the climbers yanked the loose rock off of this route Thursday night. Interesting that the rating is thought to be too low for this route (I couldn't say as I didn't try it). The other climbs in this area seem to be less difficult than their ratings. |
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Jun 30, 2008
| I agree with the other ratings. They seemed a bit easier than rated, although my wife had a harder time on the 5.8 than expected. As far as the 11d, we climbed an 11d at the speed trap this morning with no problems. So, maybe I'm not just crazy. If we get a few more 11d's this week I'll know that the rating is off... Do you know where the loose rock was pulled? Was it at bolt 4? |
By JBONE Jul 11, 2009
| DUMB! |
By lewisslc From: Salt Lake City, Ut Sep 12, 2011
| Sent this route this weekend (first time at this crag), and although the route is very bouldery and for sure, strenuous, i find it hard to believe the thing is an 11d. i would put it at the easier end of 11a or a hard 10c with a two move crux (i also clipped the first and second bolt before leading the rest). But it was fun for everyone...interesting little route. |
By Mark Lewis From: Salt Lake City, Utah Jul 10, 2012
| A few powerful moves and the route is over. Reminds me of a high-ball boulder problem somewhere in the range of V2 or so. |
By Sam Miller From: salt lake city, UT Jul 11, 2012
| This was actually a really good climb. I think whoever bolted this route had intended for you to follow the arete up, as that is where the hard moves are located. If you don't follow the arete and start halfway up (starting in the crack to the left), then it's probably only an .11a. For the .11d (probably more like .12a) follow the arete. |
By Charlie S From: Ogden, UT Aug 11, 2012 rating: 5.11-
| 2 move wonder. Big throw to get to the 3rd bolt. Gain a few inches reset your feet, and another big throw to the left. Clip the 4th bolt. Then it's over. |
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