Unknown 5.11-  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Tony B on Apr 19, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Dave Stewart a log way up the untitled 2-pitch 5.1...

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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>> Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A must do route to be sure. Fun, well protected, high quality. Great moves and perfect stone most of the way. Sustained, but beatable with technique. You can arrive at the chains without a pump if you pay attention to the features, but this is a great route for technicians or thugs alike.

To find this route, first locate "Warm-Up Handcrack" (see this site) and then backtrack to a HUGE left-facing corner that starts 17meters up and continues for another 45 meters to some anchors. These are not immediately apparent from the ground. There is a light-brown slab that rises up and to the right against the base of this route from which to start in a good looking set of cracks in that wall.

Climb up the slab and cast off onto the first pitch 5.9(?) placing a few cams in the right-facing crack and corner- clip the single bolt (no chain or webbing) and add gear to belay, or continue into the business. You are now in a massive right-facing corner with an outward-pointing crack, which offers mostly very good jams. Space your cams wisely, push them up, leap-frog them, etc... when you pass the fist blind bulge, you have 20 meters left to go. Three meters from the top you will reach a bump in the crack that goes right, this takes some large TCUs (1-2") and might help alleviate the high demand on your 2.5" pieces... place the TCUs and finish the climb.

Rap on two 60 meter lines. Watch out for loose rock when pulling your rope, should it happen to catch on a ledge on the way down. We pulled a head-sized block off accidentally and had to dodge it.

Protection 

The racks are per pitch- but the climb can be combined into one monster lead.P1- a few cams each 2"-3" and a few small TCU's to back up the sngle bolt belay.P2- Got red & gold camalots? Good- 150' to go. 2.5" are about perfect for most of the way (loose red, tight gold) and a few 3" or even 3.5" can be placed to suppliment.The crux "bump" (tiny roof) can fit gear 1"-2", so take a few large TCU's and save a few cams for the rest of the route.!!!Rapping off REQUIRES two 60M ropes!!!

Photos of Unknown 5.11- Slideshow

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Dave Stewart burries good jams high over the groun...

BETA PHOTO: The unnamed 2-pitch corner can be seen in this sho...