Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 32
votes
Routes in Reservoir Wall
|
|
3 Chumps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Act Your Age T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Chachapoya T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
David's Second Movement T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Feel the Funkness T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Frosted Flakes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Good Excuse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Kelley Route 28 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Kelley Route 29 aka Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Kelley Route 41 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Left Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Less Than Zero T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Long Crack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Merry Cherry T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
On Look T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Pop Up! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Raison D'être T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Rawhide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Sea of Heartbreak T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Slot Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Sumo T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Three Fools aka Kelley Route 32 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Trust it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
unknown offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Will-Mento T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Steve Hong (?) |
| Page Views: | 5,023 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 18, 2005 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed.
Details
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldnt be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you dont want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Description
A must do route to be sure. Fun, well protected, high quality. Great moves and perfect stone most of the way. Sustained, but beatable with technique. You can arrive at the chains without a pump if you pay attention to the features, but this is a great route for technicians or thugs alike.
To find this route, first locate "Warm-Up Handcrack" (see this site) and then backtrack to a HUGE left-facing corner that starts 17meters up and continues for another 45 meters to some anchors. These are not immediately apparent from the ground. There is a light-brown slab that rises up and to the right against the base of this route from which to start in a good looking set of cracks in that wall.
Climb up the slab and cast off onto the first pitch 5.9(?) placing a few cams in the right-facing crack and corner- clip the single bolt (no chain or webbing) and add gear to belay, or continue into the business. You are now in a massive right-facing corner with an outward-pointing crack, which offers mostly very good jams. Space your cams wisely, push them up, leap-frog them, etc... when you pass the fist blind bulge, you have 20 meters left to go. Three meters from the top you will reach a bump in the crack that goes right, this takes some large TCUs (1-2") and might help alleviate the high demand on your 2.5" pieces... place the TCUs and finish the climb.
Rap on two 60 meter lines. Watch out for loose rock when pulling your rope, should it happen to catch on a ledge on the way down. We pulled a head-sized block off accidentally and had to dodge it.
To find this route, first locate "Warm-Up Handcrack" (see this site) and then backtrack to a HUGE left-facing corner that starts 17meters up and continues for another 45 meters to some anchors. These are not immediately apparent from the ground. There is a light-brown slab that rises up and to the right against the base of this route from which to start in a good looking set of cracks in that wall.
Climb up the slab and cast off onto the first pitch 5.9(?) placing a few cams in the right-facing crack and corner- clip the single bolt (no chain or webbing) and add gear to belay, or continue into the business. You are now in a massive right-facing corner with an outward-pointing crack, which offers mostly very good jams. Space your cams wisely, push them up, leap-frog them, etc... when you pass the fist blind bulge, you have 20 meters left to go. Three meters from the top you will reach a bump in the crack that goes right, this takes some large TCUs (1-2") and might help alleviate the high demand on your 2.5" pieces... place the TCUs and finish the climb.
Rap on two 60 meter lines. Watch out for loose rock when pulling your rope, should it happen to catch on a ledge on the way down. We pulled a head-sized block off accidentally and had to dodge it.
Protection
The racks are per pitch- but the climb can be combined into one monster lead.P1- a few cams each 2"-3" and a few small TCU's to back up the sngle bolt belay.P2- Got red & gold camalots? Good- 150' to go. 2.5" are about perfect for most of the way (loose red, tight gold) and a few 3" or even 3.5" can be placed to suppliment.The crux "bump" (tiny roof) can fit gear 1"-2", so take a few large TCU's and save a few cams for the rest of the route.!!!Rapping off REQUIRES two 60M ropes!!!
7 Comments