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 ADVANCED
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Maniacs S 
7/11 S 
A Virgin No More S 
Air Jordan S 
Anatomy 101 S 
Animosity S 
Apes in Estrus S 
B1 or V5 S 
Bad Rap S 
Banana Slugs in Heat S 
Black Jesus S 
Black Sheets of Rain S 
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 
Brown Sugar S 
Bullet the Blue Sky S 
Candy Apple Grey S 
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 
Colville Express S 
Concupiscent Curds S 
Dazed and Confuzed S 
Dog's Delight S 
El Dedo Es la Llave S 
Forever Young S 
Freddy's Nightmare S 
Friday the 13th S 
Handle with Care T,S 
Harvey's Wallbanger T 
Head Over Heals S 
Heaven Can Wait T 
Hip Hop S 
How The West Was Won S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 
Innocent Mission S 
Intimidator S 
Jabba the Hut S 
Jack and Diane S 
Jewel Of The Mild S 
Josie's  S 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 
Morada S 
Ms. Cool S 
No Intent S 
No Sweat, No Vapor S 
Not My Cross To Bear S 
Nueve a Seis S 
Omnipenitent S 
Ordinary People S 
Passion Play S 
Pumping Huecos S 
Ranck E S 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 
Santa Cruz T 
Schizoid Way S 
Shady Lady S 
Shear Strength S 
Sheer Lunacy S 
Sister of Mercy S 
Soul Boy S 
Tanks for the Hueco S 
Tao of Gymnastic S 
True Penitence T 
Unbound S 
Unknown S 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 
Unknown 5.10a S 
Unknown 5.10d S 
Unrepenitente S 
Vapor Trails S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown 5.10a 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 648
Submitted By: Gary Schmidt on Jun 14, 2009

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Unknown 5.10a 

Left of Jewel of the Mild and right of the Brown Sugar Wall are two bolted lines not in the guidebook. An unknown 5.6 route goes up a low angle ramp. To its right is this route.

There is an obvious, left-trending crack below the first bolt. If the first bolt is a little too high for your liking, you can easily protect it with a number 2 cam, but the climbing is fairly easy and secure to the first bolt. Continue on up another bolted crack to a steep bulge. This is the crux and will probably cause you to slow down. The moves are around 5.10a. Figure it out and then make some more nice moves on up to the two bolt anchor.

It is worth doing (as opposed to the ramp route to its left).

Location 

Left of Jewel of the Mild and right of the Brown Sugar Wall are two bolted lines not in the guidebook. An unknown 5.6 route goes up a low angle ramp. To its right is this route.

Protection 

Bolts and possibly a #2 cam.


Comments on Unknown 5.10a Add Comment
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By BGreen
From: Del Norte, CO
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route...well protected crux for the budding 5.10 leader.