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Horseshoe Canyon
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Unknown 5.10a 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 880
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Description 

A sustained 5.10a route featuring tons of varied holds and interesting moves.

This is the third route from the right on Horseshoe Wall, and is one of the more interesting routes on the wall. You get a pretty good view of the moves on the .11d to the right on your way up.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


Comments on Unknown 5.10a Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Now its the 3rd route over from the right.

Also.... The anchor on this climb needs to be fixed. The left low bolt is on a detached flake and the press link to lower off on is wedged and flipped upside down on the quick link that holds the two chains together making it so you have to lower on the thin side with the open end of the press link supporting your weight. I suggest removing the left low bolt anchor and replacing it up and to the right of the existing bolt in solid rock. The chains can just be hanging separate like all other climbs in the area that way you are depending on two separate pieces of gear to support your weight. If the FAist will allow I can fix the problem the next time I'm up there.

Rough??
By Grumpy Gym Climber
May 10, 2014

It appears a large chunk of rock fell off just to the right the area between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. There are still a few loose pieces, but I think the route now climbs more like a 5.8-5.9.
By Boriss
From: Sacramento
Jul 20, 2014

By Sergey Shelukhin
From: San Francisco, California
Feb 22, 2015

Since the small flake jug after the 2nd bolt is very movable (I heard some people use it but I didn't), now the hardest part of this climb is the least bolted. Not that I'm complaining, just something to be aware of.
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