Auburn State Recreation Area is now open seven days a week to technical climbing! The area still closes to all activity at dusk, so be sure to leave enough time to return to your car during daylight hours.
CRAGS -- the Sacramento area local Access Fund affiliate -- and the California State Parks worked together through a pilot program of limited access in the popular Auburn Quarry. Its success has led to Auburn being full opened to roped climbing.
By Kelley Gilleran From: Sacramento, Ca Aug 9, 2013 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
Now its the 3rd route over from the right.
Also.... The anchor on this climb needs to be fixed. The left low bolt is on a detached flake and the press link to lower off on is wedged and flipped upside down on the quick link that holds the two chains together making it so you have to lower on the thin side with the open end of the press link supporting your weight. I suggest removing the left low bolt anchor and replacing it up and to the right of the existing bolt in solid rock. The chains can just be hanging separate like all other climbs in the area that way you are depending on two separate pieces of gear to support your weight. If the FAist will allow I can fix the problem the next time I'm up there.