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A somewhat-intimidating-looking jug haul on broken-appearing rock that climbs through two roofs.
Begin either from a comfortable belay position at the base of the cliff or from an okay ledge about 20 feet up (the ledge can be reached by scrambling past two bolts on 3rd or 4th class terrain, or by walking left, up a scree slope, and approaching from the left).
Once at the ledge, clip a bolt that is about chest-high on the arete to the right. Find pockets and sidepulls and continue up and over the first roof.
Take the left of the two bolt lines that are before you, figure out a blank-looking section and then climb up to and through the larger roof. If you aren't using jugs, you're not looking hard enough.
Starts to the left of a rounded buttress with two bolted routes (Unknown 5.9 and Unknown 5.10a).
Shares the start with Unknown 5.10c
Approach as to Hard Rock Wall, when you get to the top of the slope, head left to new Hard Rock West area. Continue west past the terraced area to newer climbs.
About 9 bolts, or 11 bolts counting the two bolts on the lower-angled terrain. (Forgot to count them, so don't rely on this for the precise count.)
|Comments on Unknown 5.10+
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Sep 29, 2011
When I was first told about this line I was told it is a 5.11a. I thought the first roof was the hardest part, so if that's true, it can't be any harder than the line with which it shares the start (Unknown 5.10c).
Be a bit wary of this line. At some point some of the upper roof is going to come off. It seems fairly solid now, but is hollow-sounding when you hit it with your hand. You don't want to be around if it decides to take flight.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Totally agree about that block - perfect freeze/thaw accident waiting to happen. Wonder if pouring some glue in there could stop the inevitable for awhile anyway?
|By Aaron Shields|
From: Lehi, UT
Aug 2, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Great climb, but agree that it's not tougher than 5.10c/d. Psychologically, this climb is tough because of the loose stuff. Most of the upper roof is due to come down any time now; it felt pretty loose, and I wasn't thrilled about using it. If you climb this, put your belayer at the bottom, under the 5.4 scramble so they have more protection and some time to react. When it does come off, maybe it will be 5.11a.
|By Dillon Vesper|
Nov 16, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
great climb, little sketchy with the loose rock but some awesome exposure here! looks harder than what it really is, after pulling that first roof its smooth sailing to the top!'