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Spooner Crag
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Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) S 
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Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Josh Cameron on Jun 27, 2011

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At around the 2nd bolt.


Start on sloping ground right of the first bolt. Pull up and then do a strenous lieback with your right hand while your left makes a BIG reach for a pocket (this move is much more difficult if you are under 5'10''). Continue traversing up and left on pockets. After the second bolt, the difficulties ease. Catch your breath and head to the top.

The direct start looks like hard 5.12.


The line just left of Nightcap's first pitch.


4 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel chains. The first bolt protects the traverse in, but is a strenous clip. The fourth bolt and anchor are shared by Nightcap.

Photos of Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) Slideshow Add Photo
Josh gearing up for the BIG reach/swing.
Josh gearing up for the BIG reach/swing.
Charles working the overhanging moves.
Charles working the overhanging moves.
The Monkey Swing!!
The Monkey Swing!!
The classic Yosemite shoulder stand.
The classic Yosemite shoulder stand.

Comments on Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) Add Comment
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By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jun 27, 2011

If anyone knows the FA party and/or the real name of this route, let me know and I'll change it. Not sure if the climb is actually 5.10+, but as Gill says it's just a very reachy and commiting move.
By Kung Phu Panda
From: South Lake Tahoe, California
Sep 16, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I just worked the route today. 10+ if your over six feet, 11a if your under 5'10".
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