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Devil's Head Rock
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Unknown 5.10 Crack T 

Unknown 5.10 Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown, likely 1990s by bolt appearances.
Season: Faces Northeast.
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2011

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The crack and the climb.
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Description 

This is a 'destination route' worthy of making this cliff a target on its own merit. This wonderful pitch is on bulletproof rock with perfect gear for 140' to a bolted rap anchor. Approach via a single pitch of 5.5 uphill and right of the target pitch. The lower pitch could be soloed in climbing shoes, but it is a little dirty, so a rope might feel better. After the lower pitch, traverse left on a good shelf for 50' to a right-facing corner that will take 1-2" gear for a belay anchor. The fun begins immediately after that....

Start climbing up on a flare and some small footholds to get a stance, rest, and gear. An experienced climber should have no problem with this, but the ledge below may justify some pause for a novice leader at this level. Get established in the corner and work up past reasonable gear and rock for 30' to intersect the delicious crack above. Start slamming in jams and cams and work your way up past bulges and jutting sections of the crack to the top. As it becomes thinner, the angle lessens to keep it all from 5.9-5.10, sustained.

This appears to be the route marked "Unknown 5.11b/c" in Hubbel's book but is most certainly NOT 5.11, a grade that has done nothing more than discourage climbers who could easily enjoy this climb.


Location 

This crag lies at the right-hand side of the South Face of Devil's Head. Hike to the base and head right, uphill. Continuously look back over your shoulder for a splitter running its way up the left side of a right-facing corner one pitch above the ground. When you see a line that looks like a classic 5.10 splitter pitch, you have found it for sure.

The face is slightly yellowish and lies above a few lines that go ground up - passing a single 3/8" stud (no hanger) 4 meters off of the ground. The best approach pitch is a low angle 5.5 10-15 meters to the right of this.


Protection 

A double rack of cams from 0.5"-3" plus an optional 4" for the easier lower section and set of nuts. Only a few slings will be needed for the bulges and overlaps. The belay below and left of it on the shelf may require additional gear from 1-2" and we built that on tricams to save our rack of SLCDs for the route itself.

Rapping requires 2 ropes unless you have a 80m+ rope. A single 70m would leave you hanging high.



Comments on Unknown 5.10 Crack Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Great route. I had forgotten about this one.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2011

Yes, one of the better if not best of the single pitches I've done this year.