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Unknown 4 

5.10+

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
FA: Estes Park locals, equipped by Joe Vallone & friend
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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George sets up for the crux.

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Description 

This is the rightmost of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a featured rock and has a funky, leaning crux that is more challenging if you are shorter than 5'10" (unless you are Lynn Hill). This looks like it should be one of the easier bolted lines...but looks aren't everything.

Move up into a groove. After the 2nd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), contort your way to a tiny roof. Finagle a decent pair of holds above the roof and heave yourself onto the rounded ledge. Clip the 4th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). Now comes the crux. Wheedle your way up on a funky lieback, cross over to gain the left side of the big knob with your left hand. Stay focused and get your feet below you. Continue up to the 2 bolt Fixe ring anchors (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.

Given the recent bolt chopping, this is a TR at best now.

Joe writes that "Gayer Than AIDS" is not the name given to this route.


Location 

This is the rightmost of the 4 bolted climbs on the far right side of the 1st Pew.


Protection 

5 bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), 2 bolt anchor (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).