Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Home on the Range Rock (temporary name)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Home on the Range T 
Unknown 4 T 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 T 
Unknown 3 T 

Unknown 4 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Jason Funk on Jun 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The line to the right of the hard diagonal seam.
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first section (the right-facing dihedral) is probably hard 5.8 but is surprisingly awkward in positioning despite the low angle. The second section I would recommend to split into a another pitch by belaying in the alcove - it requires a traverse left over to the crack that start with hands and opens way up to larger than fists, this section is the crux and seems to be somewhere around 5.9. From here, there is a big ledge where you can pass through to the otherside of the formation to walk off or keep going up another pitch (directly to the right) to the very top of Coyote Rocks via another ramping, right-facing dihedral, short squeeze chimney and a few face moves. This section is more casual and goes in the 5.6 range. It has a nice 360 degree views of surrounding area, Eagle Rocks, etc.... There is a large chockstone that should still be slung with webbing and 2 oval biners to rap off the back side of the formation. A 60 meter is recommended, but I believe a 50m will make it.


Location 

The right-leaning seam, the project is the big landmark. Once you find that, you're golden. It's about halfway in between Unknown 2 and Unknown 3, or very near The Rose.


Protection 

Bring doubles to big hands, then singles up to #6 C4.



Photos of Unknown 4 Slideshow Add Photo
Arjun starting up the dihedral.
Arjun starting up the dihedral.
Contemplating the traverse.
Contemplating the traverse.
Comments on Unknown 4 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 1, 2008

I think Jason's still working on that.

Basically, follow the right-leaning dihedral to a big, ugly horizontal, then traverse left on the horizontal until you can move up via a wide crack (about big green camalot size) that goes straight up from the horizontal that marks the top of that old Scarpelli/Suzuki project, then walk off or continue up via a 3rd pitch that I didn't really see. Bring doubles to big hands, then singles up to #6 C4.

The right-leaning seam, the project is the big landmark. Once you find that, you're golden. It's about halfway in between Unknown 2 and Unknown 3, or very near The Rose.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 1, 2008

I'd been told that he hadn't quite gotten yet. We'll leave it to him to post it up though.

By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2008

Sorry about the description, there is some sort of glitch with this page that won't allow me to edit anything. Basically repeating a lot of what Brain said in his description about the route. The first section (the right facing dihedral) is probably hard 5.8 but is suprisingly awkward in positioning despite the low angle. The second section I would recommend to split into a another pitch by belaying in the alcove- it requires a traverse left over to the crack that start with hands and opens way up to larger than fists, this section is the crux and seems to be somewhere around 5.9. From here there is a big ledge where you can pass thru to the otherside of the formation to walk off or keep going up another pitch (directly to the right) to the very top of Coyote Rocks via another ramping right facing dihedral, short squeeze chimney and a few face moves. This section is more casual and goes in the 5.6 range. Nice 360 deg views of surrounding area, Eagle Rocks, ect... There is a large chock stone that should still be slung with webbing and 2 oval biners to rap off the back side of the formation. 60 meter recommended but I believe a 50 will make it.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Nov 20, 2008

An anchor was stolen from the top of the seam just left of this route. If anyone has more info, don't hesitate to speak up.