New York Reload  5.10

237 page views Good page?

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Estes Park locals, equipped by Joe Vallone & friend Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Nov 28, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jay rocks on.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

MORE INFO >>> Sheep Mountain may have raptor closure issues. Please contact RMNP for further details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the third from the left of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a small roof to a better-than-it-looks face above that gets you dancing.

Carefully climb up & clip the 1st bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There is a hollow flake left of the bolt. Reach up to the jug & clip bolt 2 (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). High step left and rock on. Move onto the delightful face with nice edges. Weave your way up on small but positive edges. Find a crux around the 6th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) where you must trust your feet (your right fingertips are loathe to crank on that toothy hold). After the 7th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), you may find slightly bigger holds to the left. Finish at the 2 bolt Fixe ring anchors (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.

These bolts sport 3 different colored hangers, red, gray, and black, because those were the ones that came out of the bag next.

Joe wrote that he and his friend equipped the route, gave a friend the opportunity for the FA, and his friend really didn't seem to care about the name, but "Father's Sauce" was getting thrown around quite a bit, since it fit with the other names used for the neighboring routes.

Given the recent bolt chopping, this is a TR at best.

Location 

This is the 3rd from the left of the 4 sport climbs on the far right side of the 1st Pew.

Protection 

7 bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), 2 bolt anchor (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

Photos of New York Reload Slideshow

Add Photo

Jay weaves his way upward.