Start to the right of Orange Peel. Follow the line of bolts up through the roof above.
Eds. there is a variation that goes left after the 8th bolt to a separate set of anchors.
This is to the right of Orange Peel, and it is currently the 3rd bolted route from the left. See the photo.
13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Eds. note that the 2 anchor bolts here appear to be set in a protrusion of rock that could be weakened with a freeze/thaw cycle. One could back up the anchors with #2 1/2 and #3 Friends and 4+ foot slings.
|By Clare Shemeta|
Aug 21, 2011
Good route, 3 stars. 5.9 is about the grade. Note that this has about 13 bolts, so bring full draw collection!
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
'Tis a bit licheny and slick until it cleans up with use, and as such felt harder than most 5.9s. But when cleaner, 5.9 may be about right. Top anchors seem sketchy: too close to the edge of the rock, so not much rock thickness/strength holding them, and one of them flexes under load as if not tight in the hole. Take some gear to back them up.