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Gully to Prow S 
Orange Peel T 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 2 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Unknown 4 S 
Unknown 5 S 

Unknown 3 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 863
Submitted By: TBD on Aug 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown 3 on the left.

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Start to the right of Orange Peel. Follow the line of bolts up through the roof above.

Eds. there is a variation that goes left after the 8th bolt to a separate set of anchors.


This is to the right of Orange Peel, and it is currently the 3rd bolted route from the left. See the photo.


13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Eds. note that the 2 anchor bolts here appear to be set in a protrusion of rock that could be weakened with a freeze/thaw cycle. One could back up the anchors with #2 1/2 and #3 Friends and 4+ foot slings.

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Dave slabbin'.
Dave slabbin'.

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By Clare Shemeta
Aug 21, 2011

Good route, 3 stars. 5.9 is about the grade. Note that this has about 13 bolts, so bring full draw collection!
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

'Tis a bit licheny and slick until it cleans up with use, and as such felt harder than most 5.9s. But when cleaner, 5.9 may be about right. Top anchors seem sketchy: too close to the edge of the rock, so not much rock thickness/strength holding them, and one of them flexes under load as if not tight in the hole. Take some gear to back them up.
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