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 ADVANCED
West Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 
Hwan Kap T,TR 
Left-facing Dihedral T 
Shaft, The S 
Tin Can Arete T,TR 
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 
Unknown 5 T,S 
Unknown 7+ T,S 
Unknown 9 T,S 
Unknown 9+ T,S 

Unknown 2nd 9 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013

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George starts on the fun, shallow dihedral.

Description 

This is a good route that has some fun features to ascend. It is the 3rd route from the left on the right side of West Slabs. It starts in a small, right-facing dihedral.

Move up into the dihedral. A small cam (yellow Alien or TCU size) works before the 1st bolt. Move out left under a cool, shallow dihedral somewhat reminiscent of something Yosemite-like clipping 2 bolts & a Bugaboo pin. Pull past a tiny bulge onto a slab that actually has real glacier polish reminiscent of Tuolumne. This slab can run with water. Climb past 4 bolts onto easier terrain. Clip one more bolt and gain the ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with rappable hangers.

There is another 2 bolt anchor perhaps 70' above. You can climb with trad protection on 5.5 terrain.

Location 

This is the 3rd route from the left on the right side of West Slabs. It starts in a small, right-facing dihedral just above a raspberry patch.

Protection 

7 bolts, 1 pin, 1 yellow Alien/TCU.


Photos of Unknown 2nd 9 Slideshow Add Photo
<a href='/v/unknown-9/108259811'>Unknown 9</a> in red and <a href='/v/unknown-2nd-9/108259818'>Unknown 2nd 9</a> in yellow.
Unknown 9 in red and Unknown 2nd 9 in yellow.

Comments on Unknown 2nd 9 Add Comment
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By Doug Redosh
Aug 9, 2014

Nice pitch!! 2.5 stars! I never saw the piton. Maybe it is gone.