|Storm Mountain Island
This is another of the many undocumented climbs established around the Storm Mountain Island area. It is a variation to Encore's second pitch, or can be climbed in 1 pitch from the ground starting on Encore or The Flake. It is kind of a strange climb. Which side of the arete do you climb on? Right side seems fairly hard and contrived, while the left side is quite easy but the bolts are positioned in a way that your rope keeps getting hung up on the sharp edge of the heavily featured arete. Either way, climb up the slab clipping a couple bolts until the wall steepens then decide which way to go. I climbed the left side, if you go this way the crux is on the slab around the second bolt.
This climb ascends the arete located to the right of The Flake and to the left of Padded Cell.
Mostly bolts(10 I think), some gear may be heplful for those at their limit, but not really needed. Rappel from Padded Cell anchor or walk off.
Middle line is roughly the route. I'm guessing on ...
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 8, 2009
I climbed this in one pitch, but the rope drag was a bit of a problem. There is one run-out section that could be protected with gear, but it is probably 5.4 or easier. I would definitely make sure that your second follows you up and cleans the draws - it would be very hard to clean on rappel. I tried to stay right of the arete as much as possible, but found it necessary to do moves centered on the arete or slightly to the left. The left side is a nice place to hang out for a while when you get tired.
|By Arthur Morris|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If you stay to the left of the arete it's easy but clipping is awkward. So I stayed mostly right/on the arete the moves always had easier options if I went left. Climbed with nothing harder than 5.8 moves you stay pretty close to the bolts and off of the awkward terrain around the corner, without contriving the route much.
|By Gabriel Tallent|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 13, 2014
I tried the climb both ways today, climbing on the arete and using stances & holds on the left side, and then a second time following a contrived line right up the bolts, using the arete for sidepulls and laybacking. This (summer) afternoon, it was hard to see the climber because the sun lances right along the side of the arete. If you wanted, you could bring the belayer up onto the shaded ledge.
Left of the arete goes at a chossy 5.5. While there is some potential of hooking the rope on horns (which someone mentioned), it's easy to manage and I didn't have a problem. Every bolt can be clipped from bomber stances, practically hands free. None of the clipping was difficult. It was only awkward because you feel like such a coward, climbing a the 5.5 and only moving onto the aesthetic face to clip.
Right of the arete goes at an athletic 5.8––the moves are easy, but powerful as liebacking tends to be, but again, at any point you can just bail on to a ledge out left. I would recommend leading the climb this way. I imagine this is how the line was intended.
No gear necessary. Perfectly well bolted. Helmets are a good idea though. There is a ton of choss on that left side.