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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete, The 
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Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler (1986)? Mike Brooks, '82?
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 1, 2001
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  • Description 

    This route lies just up the hill from "Mr. Natural" and can been found easily by looking for 2 bolts on a short, slabby wall just off the trail. The crux comes at you right off the ground getting past, and to, the second bolt, very nice face/slab moves getting to this section, then cruise to the piton before topping out, there is a 2 eyebolt anchor at the top which can be used to lower, you could probably also walk off the route to its left, and set a toprope this way as well.

    It is a nice alternative to most of the routes on this section of the Redgarden Wall. You may want to stick clip the first, but the holds are better than they appear from the start. Have fun with this one.


    Protection 

    2 bolts, 1 piton to 2 bolt anchor.



    Comments on Unknown 10c aka Quadrille Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 29, 2013
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 14, 2002
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    Tried to on-sight this on Sunday- both my partner and I got spanked. We both generally make very short work of 5.10. It's thin, sharp, and tricky. The holds are hard to see and harder to stick to. Granted, we were both tierd...Still, the moves seemed awful hard for 5.10c... I honestly believe that this route is much harder. It reminds me of "The Unlead" except that it's harder than that too. 5.11??? Or maybe I was just having a bad day?

    That said, there was one hold up and right above the first bolt that was obviously broken in the not too distant past. Maybe that used to be a bigger hold?

    Good, different, thin.

    I don't think any 5.10c-limit climbers will flash this in my lifetime.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Oct 19, 2002

    This is definitely a height dependent one. Shorter climbers find it harder. Taller climbers find it easier. 5'10" with +2 ape makes it feels 10c. My ole buddy Steve 5'7" found it quite challenging. Flexibility can help. Balance is important.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 21, 2002
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    I'm 5'10" with a +6 ape index, and I've been doing a lot of 5.11s lately. I'd love to get the beta on how to make this feel like 5.10c. Are you sure there isn't a broken hold at the second bolt?

    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 21, 2002

    Tony, are you sure you weren't on "Toys for Tots (11a/b)", which is also left of Mr. Natural and has 2 bolts?? According to Rossiter, "Unknown 10c" has 2 bolts and then a piton. I have climbed one of these routes but it was a long time ago, all I can remember is it is hard to find an anchor at the end of the pitch ...

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 21, 2002
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    Verified. I was on the 2 bolts one pin, complete match to topo on text. Saw Toys for tots over to the side. Leading theory is a broken hold by to the right of the second bolt. Second leading thoery is I just couldn't figure this one out and got spanked. Either is possible, as there is evidence to support both a broken hold or that I am a goof ball.-T.

    By Bill Wright
    Oct 22, 2002

    I agree with Tony on this one. In its current state (actually I climbed it about a year ago), I think this climb is more like 5.11a/b(?). It is a short boulder problem pitch, but it is sharp and quite difficult, I think. Even the first clip is pretty exciting.

    Bill

    By Ken Heiser
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 7, 2003
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    Balancy, intricate, thin, difficult crux makes this a must do little short route that has basically toprope protection for leading the hard moves. There is an optional 1/2 size Friend placement between the second bolt and the pin.

    I think this is solid 5.10d. Seems to be a little to hard for 10c when compared with numerous other cruxes of that grade.

    By David Houston
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jun 29, 2003

    We did this route today and found it very interesting; I'd call it 10c/d or so. I found clipping the first bolt to be the trickiest spot, just because of the potential of falling on to the trail! Once clipped, we climbed it two different ways. Slightly to the right of the bolt is a good handhold and thin feet, slightly to the left of the bolt is good feet and thin hands. The left method is very balancy, the right more stenuous, but they felt about the same difficulty. The lack of chalk on this route really forced us to search out little key holds. A small Alien fits in the horizontal crack between the second bolt and the pin if, like us, you're so inclined.

    By Shane Z
    From: Colorado
    Jan 19, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    Climbed this yesterday and enjoyed it. I'm 5'9" and found the right hand reach to be very 'reachy' indeed. The crux starts at the ground and goes to the second bolt. After that, the climb eases up a tad. I put in a blue Alien between the second bolt and the piton in the horizontal 'crack' for added measure. Short and sweet.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    May 4, 2009
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    Lenny Miller led this yesterday by stick clipping the first bolt and then climbing slightly right of the bolt and pulling really hard on the good hold at the base of the tiny, left-facing corner. I followed it completely differently by pulling on a two tip pocket with my right hand and rocking up and left to end up standing and in balance on the higher part of the starting ledge. I then smeared up on crimps and stepped far right. Both ways seemed very hard for 10c judging by the noise Lenny was making and my own experience with the left sequence.

    By Joe Huggins
    From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
    Sep 10, 2011

    Charlie was indeed the FAist. I know he had a name for it, damned if I can remember it.

    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Sep 10, 2011

    This is listed as Quadrille in the new book. FA Mike Brooks, '82 (whoever put it up, it's pretty fun). A nice short route to do at least once.... You all know you look at it every time you walk by....

    By tooTALLtim
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 27, 2012

    Heeheh, it's .10c if you're 6'6". Shorter than that, I can easily see it feeling harder.

    By Keith Earley
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Apr 14, 2013
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    Maybe I just had a good day, but this didn't seem to hard for me today. (6'2" with +2 ape) beta I used: once matched on that reachy hold out right, there is a great sidepull 1 foot underneath the 2nd bolt. I brought my feet high onto a sloping ledge at my knees, and once I stood up, I could lean into the wall + continue to the horizontal crack.

    Felt waaay easier than Santa Ana (Captain 4Q), which we had toproped just before. I guess that's "5.9+" for ya though.

    This was my first 5.10 lead in Eldorado, so I'm not too sure of the grade.

    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    Dec 29, 2013

    Nice little route. 10c sounds right.