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Necromancer Wall
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Unknown 10a T 

Unknown 10a 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 700
Submitted By: Xavier Wasiak on Nov 25, 2012

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Description 

To the right of Atras is an exceptional face climb on some of the best sandstone at RR. Cassandra's comment on Atras led me to be curious about this one. The movement is fun and the climbing thought provoking.


Location 

Just to the right of Atras at one of the many descent steps from the top of Necromancer Wall. The climb will be obvious.


Protection 

Although this route is equipped with seven (?) well positioned bolts, it climbs more like a trad line. It does seem possible to supplement with a few pieces of gear. Two bolts with rappel rings make up the anchor at the top.



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By Zappatista
Aug 27, 2013

This route's been in existence as long as I've been in Vegas and then some, the previous anchor was getting rusted as hell and thus got replaced last year with stainless ASCA rings+brand new bolts. No gear's needed other than draws, a #9 stopper can be placed but it's in the way of a good hold, so probably better to avoid placing it. There are some wide stems and cool moves this baby-cost me a pair of pants to flash it, ended up flashing my belayer, too. Worthwhile if you're in the area. Single rope gets you down.

By Josh Janes
Nov 12, 2013

This route's name should be "The Best 10a Face Climb in Red Rocks".

By mike h
From: Denver, CO
Apr 12, 2014

Fantastic pitch, do it! Amazing that it goes at such a reasonable grade. I brought a light rack and was happy I did - placed 2 pieces down low to keep me away from the ledge.

Tons of good smaller gear to build a belay anchor on the ledge, once you figure out how to get there comfortably.

By Carl H.
Apr 15, 2014

A GREAT route, but hard to get to. We found it by mistake while descending. NOTE that the belay position is on a ledge that is a bit sketchy to get to. In addition I recommend you build a trad anchor for the belayer, so bring gear for that if you are hiking up just to do this 'sport' route.

In addition there is a bit of a run-out between a few bolts. My son placed 2 pieces of gear. Unless you are really solid above this grade, I recommend doing this as a mixed route.

Lastly the descent requires rappelling from a tree above, and to the right of, the belay, which takes a bit of work to get to.

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 15, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

In regards to Carl's comment, the route raps off a two bolt anchor with rings. You can get all the way to the ground with a 70m rope. Watch the ends though.

By mmacelhi
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

fun climbing but not a 10. as my wife noted, it felt like a bolted version of Pas de Deux in the Trapps (5.8 old school)

I placed some gear to supplement the bolts but usually found that when i made the moves, they weren't that bad and i was back in reach of the next bolt. the Necro decent gully is a cool spot and a beautiful climb.

By yann gauthier
May 19, 2014

.5 camalot before de 1 bolt if you are not confortable and #1or2 after de 2 bolt
Super line be careful if you do it with a 60 m rope you need to down climb 12 feet (very easy)