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Nappy Dread 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ??
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: Justin Brunson on Sep 17, 2011

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Daniel Griffin approaches the anchors at the top o...

Description 

P1- 5.7 start just left of a big boulder with a giant anthill at the bottom. the bolt line trends right through easy terrain, then steepens to an awkward lip encounter right before the belay.

P2- 5.9 Go straight up for two bolts, then move right. short pitch, maybe 5 bolts.

P3- 5.10b Get up on the ledge and take 3 steps left. getting to the first bolt is pretty thin. bolt line trends left.

Protection 

ten-ish qd's. A 60m rope will get you ALMOST to the ground in 2 raps. Knot your ends and be ready to do some easy downclimbing. Or just rap thrice.
you can also link p1 and p2 with a 60.

  • *When rapping off P3, resist the urge to stop at the ledge. I did this without thinking, and them made the lazy/stupid decision to do the resulting 15' rap to the p2 chains off of the one bolt that you can reach from the ledge. GO ALL THE WAY TO THE CHAINS.


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By Nielsonru
Jan 17, 2014

This one of my favorite routes at Box Canyon. Great climbing and not too run out. P2 anchors are a pain to belay from, even though pitch 2 if probably my favorite. I usually end up belaying on my side or against my knees. Sometimes I wouldn't mind having something do belay from on the shelf and risk a little rope drag, but I totally understand the current setup.

Great climb!
By Sam Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
6 days ago
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

According to the new Bingham guide, this route is called Nappy Dread
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
6 days ago

Updated route name