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U1 stemming fun!
|SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>|
Straightforward climbing up a twin crack-stembox takes you to the flake. The crux kicks in once you leave the flake. Most agree that 5.10 is kind of a stiff grade for this route. (it's been dubbed by some, 'the ruiner,' in reference to how their day went after 'warming up' on this route)
Climb the double crack-stembox 3 lines right of JR Token. Has a distinctive loose-looking flake at 3/4 height that's actually quite solid.
Doubles from BD .3-2 plus some thinner gear for the crux will be more than adequate.
Dec 18, 2012
This climb is much more interesting and entertaining than it looks.