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The Power Wall
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Unknown 1 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Sep 24, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The route ascends the center of the choss face.
New Access Difficulties MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Two new routes were put up on the face around the corner from Electric Eye, one goes up the aręte on the left, the other up the face. They still need a lot of cleaning, especially this one (the face route). I pulled off a key hold coming over the roof and manually removed two other loose pieces earlier on the route. Even when clean this will be OK at best.

Half the route involves climbing up a slab filled with huge huecos; 5.7 climbing at most. By this time you will have two of the three bolts clipped. The second half of the wall goes vertical in a slight dihedral and is actually kind of fun. There’s only about two stemming moves then you pull the roof and walk up the slab to the anchors.


Location 

On the face around the corner from Electric Eye. This route climbs the center of the face, to the right of the bolted aręte.


Protection 

3 bolts to open shuts.



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