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Stratocaster Area
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Beyond Reason S 
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Deluxe, The S 
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Unknown  S 

Unknown  

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: (?)
Season: winter (full sun)
Page Views: 1,023
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Jan 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Tainiko Lowman - January 10th, 2014.

Description 

This thing gets my vote for the best 5.10 sport climb in Red Rock. Super long, technical and sustained, this route seems to go on forever.
The first two thirds of the route features vertical climbing with postive edges. Once at the top third, the angle eases back, but the difficulty does not. Technical footwork up the lower angled rock will see you to the chains.

Location 

This route is located on the tall black wall before the Stratocaster area proper. It is the leftmost route on the wall, just left of Flame Ranger.

Protection 

13! bolts, chains


Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
Darren on the sweet Unknown 10d.
Darren on the sweet Unknown 10d.
Darren on the sweet Unknown 10d.
Darren on the sweet Unknown 10d.

Comments on Unknown Add Comment
Show which comments
By Clayton Knudson
From: El Portal, CA
Mar 22, 2012

Great pumpy route with good sustained climbing. Definately one of the better 10s I've done in Red Rock
By Tradoholic
Nov 9, 2012

WTF? This climb is pretty much junk. Just about every hold was suspect and it only got worse as you get higher. In addition there was what looked like a mess of glue that was mixed too thin and then ran all over. Not to mention the moves weren't too great either.
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 29, 2012

That is so weird. I didn't think people did that kind of thing in red rock. I guess the end (a mess) justifies the means (anything goes, except ground-up and good style)
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 21, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Easily the best 5.10 sport pitch in Red Rock. Didn't see any glue mess, all the holds were quite good (except maybe one or two)- both in quality and incut. 30m of pure face climbing bliss. Well worth doing and a great warm-up for the harder stuff at Stratocaster.
By jonalexander
Jan 12, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun, zipped up route with sustained climbing and good looking bolts. There may be a few pieces of loose rock ready to pop off.
By Fearless1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 13, 2014

I really enjoyed this route! Of course the sandstone can be delicate at times and may break if you climb like a Clydesdale. There is a nice rest before the crux but otherwise the climbing is sustained. I agree that it is a good warm up for Flame Ranger and Tier of The Titans right next to it. The bolts are safely spaced and would be a great route to try for anyone breaking into the grade. 10b in my humble opinion.